Looking straight down the NW Face route from at or near the summit. It's a fine, direct route with a circuitous approach: from Boston Basin on the South, ascend the Quien Sabe Glacier. Cross the E Ridge at Sharkfin Col. Traverse Boston Glacier to and across the N Ridge. Traverse and descend the Forbidden Glacier, entering this photo from the right edge. Drop under the base of this butterss, then climb the glacier and traverse snow and rock on the W side (our left, here) out to the crest.

Once on the rock, go straight up the rib and face on fine rock. Descending the W Ridge route turns it into a complete circuit.

Photographed July, 1985.