Cjadenis group

Overview

The Cjadenis group ( Cjadenis means " chains " in the local carnic language ) belongs to the Carnic Alps Main Ridge ( west ) and it's usually associated with the massive Monte Peralba and the wild peaks and towers of the Avanza group. It's composed by two main peaks ( Monte Cjadenis, 2459 m and Pic Cjadenis, 2490 m and three nameless towers between them.
It lies in the middle of beautiful green valleys: Val Fleons and Val d'Oregone north east to west, Col Caneva south and the Avanza forest south east. The white limestone of the mountains of this group creates an amazing contrast with the environment around. This is really one of the most beautiful areas of all the Carnic Alps and of course in the summer season can be quite overcrowded. A lot of people come here to climb Monte Peralba or just to see the springs of Piave, italian's most sacred river. But if you avoid the weekends of the summer months you can enjoy perfect peace and climb this peaks whithout being disturbed.
This is mainly a climbers group, there aren't easy ascents for this summits. The easiest route is a medium-hard via ferrata for the top of Monte Cjadenis. There are climbing routes for every taste and ability, from the easy normal route to Pic Cjadenis to the extreme Baschera-Solero.
From the geolgical point of view this is one of the oldest areas of the entire alpine arc: the rock of this group is mainly composed by reef limestone of the Devonian age ( 350 million years ).
During the first world war many battles have been fought in this area and the Cjadenis group was a stronghold of the italian firing line. Among the numerous rests of that period are very interesting the caves and galleries that you can see on the sides of Monte Cjadenis and the third tower.
First ascent ( normal route to Pic Cjadenis ): H.Prunner, 9.17.1896

Summit views

sea of clouds

Peralba

Monte Avanza

Getting there

From west: from the Brennero motorway, exit Bressanone and then Passo Monte Croce Comelico-Sappada-Cima Sappada

From east: from the Udine-Tarvisio motorway, exit Carnia and then Tolmezzo-Forni Avoltri-Cima Sappada

From south: from Belluno to Pieve di Cadore-S.Stefano-Sappada-Cima Sappada

From north: from Passo di Monte Croce Carnico to Paluzza-Comeglians-Forni Avoltri-Cima Sappada

from S.Candido to Passo di Monte Croce Comelico-Sappada-Cima Sappada

Once arrived in the village of Cima Sappada take the narrow road to Val Sesis - Rifugio Sorgenti del Piave

Routes overview

Via ferrata " C.A.I. di Portogruaro " ( Monte Cjadenis south east face )

This is the easiest route of the group, and can be climbed either from east or south west.
Max diff. UIAA II all secured with iron ropes

Via " Gasperini-Janese " ( south east face of Monte Cjadenis )

380 m Max diff. UIAA VI

Via " Fasil-Pachner " ( north west face of Monte Cjadenis )

250 m max diff. UIAA III

Via " dei Tedeschi " ( north east face, between the first and the second tower )

300 m Max diff. UIAA IV-

Normal route to Pic Cjadenis ( north west face )

150 m Max diff. UIAA I+

Via " Malaguti-Solero " ( north east face, between Pic Cjadenis and the first tower )

300 m Max diff. UIAA V+

"Adrenalina" ( south face of Pic Cjadenis )

230 m Max diff. UIAA VI-

Via " Baschera-Solero " ( south face of Pic Cjadenis )

200 m Max diff. UIAA VII+

accomodation

Sappada accomodation
Hotel Sorgenti del Piave
Rifugio Calvi
Rifugio Sorgenti del Piave

Red tape

No limitations

When to climb?

Summer and autumn are the best seasons but depending on snow conditions you can climb in late spring and early winter as well.

Veneto weather forecast

Maps and Books

Tabacco maps 1:25000

001 Sappada-S.Stefano-Forni Avoltri
009 Alpi Carniche-Carnia Centrale

Kompass Maps WK60 1:50000

Gailitalier Alpen - Karnische Alpen -Oberdrautal

Guida ai Monti d'Italia - Alpi Carniche, A. De Rovere - M. Di Gallo, C.A.I. - T.C.I.

Peralba - Avanza - Cjadenis - Val Visdende, R. Mazzilis - S. Dalla Porta, Tamari Montagna, Cornuda

Alpi Carniche Escursioni e testimonianze sui monti della Grande Guerra, A. e F. Scrimali, Panorama

Images

View Cjadenis group Image Gallery - 25 Images