| Liberty Ridge crux on May 30, 2007 | [ Sizes: Orig | Large | Med | Small | Thumb ] |
Myself leading the crux of the route. I placed one screw for the bottom belay and then 3 ice screws on the 40 meter pitch of ~ 55° ice. Near the end of the 1st pitch, the ice disappeared and I encountered crusty, hard snow. I made the upper belay anchor with 2 pickets. If you climb Liberty Ridge now (i.e. early June 2007), I suggest you bring 2 pickets & 2 ice screws per climber. Two tools for whoever leads the ice. They proved indispensable up there: May 30, 2007 (Photo: Brad Mastros).
Comments
[ Post a Comment ] | | forjan | Re: WOW | | 
Hasn't voted | Thanks, Tina! Thanks Deb! Thanks Dave! | | Posted Jun 5, 2007 1:59 am |
| rhyang | Good stuff ! | | 
Voted 10/10 | Sounds like the Kautz Glacier last July ... similar pitch of ice, though not as steep - maybe 50 degrees at most. I led with one tool and one alpine axe. At the top I had to belay from a couple of (shaky) pickets... big fun !!
I bet this pitch is higher up though - the steep stuff on the Kautz is probably between 11500 and 12000' ... and I sure wasn't leading while carrying all my overnight gear on my back ! | | Posted Jun 4, 2007 12:06 pm |
| | forjan | Re: Good stuff ! | |
Hasn't voted | It's a different world when you're leading 55 degree ice with a 40+ pound pack on your back and at 13,600 feet. Also, I waited over 1 hour at the upper belay (check my Rainier summit log). All in all, I wouldn't have it any other way! HA! | | Posted Jun 4, 2007 1:02 pm |
| | rhyang | Re: Good stuff ! | |
Voted 10/10 | That bivy at the summit crater must have been sweet ! Totally jealous !! | | Posted Jun 4, 2007 1:12 pm |
| Deb | Awesome! | | 
Voted 10/10 | Looks good from here Miguel! Pretty proud of you guys. | | Posted Jun 4, 2007 1:13 pm |
| Dave Daly | Nice Ascent Miguel! | | 
Hasn't voted | What next? K2? Glad you made it home safe to us!! Congrats!! | | Posted Jun 4, 2007 1:40 pm |
| Herb | This rocks... | | 
Voted 10/10 | Congrats & cheers,
Herbert | | Posted Jun 6, 2007 11:10 am |
| F_Rhoderick | Nice | | 
Voted 10/10 | Hard core man | | Posted Jun 6, 2007 11:08 pm |
| d_shorb | Word. nice job. | | 
Hasn't voted | I led this upper ice section as well,though haven't digitized the pics. It's nice to see your's here. | | Posted Oct 15, 2007 3:00 pm |
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