| hotlam-bolam | [ Sizes: Orig | Med | Small | Thumb ] |
View of the hotlam-bolam route from the northgate trailhead. Line shows our ascent route, but due to poor beta available I'm not sure if this is the route proper or just a variation that worked for us. Red line starts at around 11,000 feet, detours around the two bergschrunds/crevasses, and ascends the first snow gully. Blue line ascends the second gully, which drops climber's right towards the Bolam glacier (the gully way right of the red line is the same gully). Green line ascends the third gully below the shark's tooth (prominent peak just right of where the green line ends). From here we traversed climber's right and uphill to the summit saddle.
Comments
[ Post a Comment ]| rhyang | Good job ! | | 
Voted 10/10 | The flattish area where the red line ends is called 'the Step', around 13000'. I think your blue line traverses over to a variation called the Bolam Gully (which I haven't been on), above the Bolam Glacier.
The usual route ascends class 2 rock from the Step near some prominent towers called the Rabbit Ears, to the backside of the summit plateau. | | Posted Jun 18, 2007 6:47 pm |
| poserbob | Route Directions | | Hasn't voted | Congrats on the two footed ascent!
Some beta on the route for anyone looking at this picture from someone who has been on this route 4 times.
First, on your page you asked why the route isn't ascending a "glacier." It is! It is part of the "new" Chicago Glacier. Also, of note is that back in '98 when I first tried this route there were no crevasses below the ramp! The glacier has been shifting dramatically.
As far as dealing with these crevasses, most people follow the finger of rock to the far right of your route above the high camp area and then, once higher than the upper bergscrund, make a traverse hugging the rocks directly above the crevasses and then turn up the snow ramp once it is reached.
Hope this is helpful to people. The route marked here would be more "exciting" but if you're trying to make the route as straightforward as possible, I would suggest the above mentioned route. | | Posted Dec 7, 2008 12:25 pm |
| MtnGuide | Left route Hotlum Ridge | | 
Hasn't voted | So I guess that left shoulder route that goes up along the edge of the fogbank, above the cliff into the stadium of the Hotlum Headwall must be the Hotlum-Wintun Route.
We were headed up there from high camp when that fog bank blew in at 60 mph all night. Collapsed camp and no sleep turned us back for lack of time to rest first.
This photo confirms my concerns about pushing through the fog -- no doubt a whiteout up high, just as you are getting tired from the steeps. What a surprise to stumble into that.
Any further clarification on this deduction would be helpful for the next time. Thanks. | | Posted May 31, 2009 11:21 pm |
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