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East Ridge, IV, 5.7 [ Sizes: Orig | Large | Med | Small | Thumb ]
East Ridge, IV, 5.7
Continue scrambling up the ridge itself enjoying views in both directions until you come to an obvious 5th class step with significant exposure to the right side. There is a piton at the base of this step and a small crack that takes a 00 Metolius or small nut. It is somewhat flaring so a cam would work best if you brought one that small. A move or two above that placement and this step is overcome. This was the first time we pulled out the rope, but many do prefer to short rope to this point.
East Ridge, IV, 5.7, Mount Temple, Banff National Park, July, 2007



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BazeheadPro

Hasn't voted

Another party of 3 (guides without clients) soloed this step just ahead of us, but care/confidence is required as the consequences of a fall would be serious or fatal.

On Aug 9/2009 there was a pin at the base which could be backed up to make a quick anchor. Then, as you lead the step there is a pin slightly hiden on the left at the crux move. Someone had also rigged a 10ft line from the top to help as a handhold. We did not use it because we didn't know how secure it was (upon inspection is looked 'ok', but I still wouldn't fully trust loose fixed lines).
Posted Aug 10, 2009 1:16 pm

Dow WilliamsRe: Pro

Hasn't voted

the fixed line should be removed...that is bs, straight out
Posted Aug 11, 2009 11:16 am

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Submitted by Dow Williams
on Jul 31, 2007 12:05 pm

Image ID: 318418
Hits: 790 

Lat/Lon: 32.84000°N / 113.91°W

Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing



""You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know.""   --Rene Daumal   

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