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Buckingham, IV, 5.10 [ Sizes: Orig | Large | Med | Small | Thumb ]
Buckingham, IV, 5.10
Bugaboo Spire's infamous NE Ridge in the background....
8th Pitch- 25m- 5.9/ The most difficult climbing of the first eight pitches of the Buckingham route. It is published at 5.8, many claim it is 5.10, but my partners and I believe 5.9 is a good compromise. Bottom line is somebody in your party needs to be confident of their slab skills. Traverse out left and up past a bolt for several crux moves, with little positive traction and some exposure to boot (thus the only bolts on the route). Continue back right past another bolt and thus another crux slab move that puts you into a small right angled crack that can assist your ascent from there on easier ground as you near a rap station.
Snowpatch Spire, Buckingham, IV, 5.10, Bugaboo Provincial Park, BC, August, 2007


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Image Data

Submitted by Dow Williams
on Aug 21, 2007 5:02 pm

Image ID: 327027
Hits: 296 

Lat/Lon: 32.84000°N / 113.91°W

Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing



""You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know.""   --Rene Daumal   

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