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Honeycomb Chimney, 5.9 [ Sizes: Orig | Large | Med | Small | Thumb ]
Honeycomb Chimney, 5.9
7th Pitch- 100’- 5.9/ By far the best as well as crux pitch of the route and I cannot imagine anything on Community Pillar next door to rival it. A “spectacular” (as Handren describes it and I concur) steep corner pitch with a slick black varnished wall coming in from the left into another wall with some large features higher up. At first the crack is wide and looks hard to protect, but in reality, you can sink two #4’s in as you work your way up to the 2nd half of the corner and into the more challenging climbing. The gear keeps getting smaller down to #.4. Use a combination of chimney and lie back technique to wrestle your way to the final reachy face moves which land you on top of a huge ledge. Belay with any variation of gear into a solid crack above.
Honeycomb Chimney, 5.9, 8 Pitches, Magic Mountain, Red Rocks, May, 2008


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Viewing: 1-5 of 5

rpcgreat shots Dow!!

Voted 10/10

Holy sh.t! That looks like the stellar pitch it's supposed to be - can't wait to give this line a go.
Posted May 19, 2008 12:38 pm

Dow WilliamsRe: great shots Dow!!

Hasn't voted

Radek, the pic does not do it justice...had ice climbing friend from Canada with who was out of rock shape...he was so freaked out when he saw it, he did not think he could 2nd it...that is how cool it looked from below..the left wall coming in was pure black slick, one piece...nice...a ton of fun to lead...the rest is a bit of a bore, but the Honeycomb chimney was cute.....good one for the summer, I don't think you can find a better route for a hot day...cheers
Posted May 19, 2008 12:55 pm

rpcRe: great shots Dow!!

Voted 10/10

"he was so freaked out when he saw it, he did not think he could 2nd it...that is how cool it looked from below"
sitting here laughing my ass off :)

Thanks for the info. Dow! Indeed sounds funner than Community pillar. Best regards!
Posted May 19, 2008 1:15 pm

Dow WilliamsRe: great shots Dow!!

Hasn't voted

well you know the type Radek...claims to climb 5.10...ok, where? a gym? going to switch out leads until he reached the top of his first Red Rocks 5.7 on 2nd....of course no argument from me that he changed his mind...I never heard more huffing and puffing....hey, this reminds me of that cool trip report we both found...remember, Lady Wilson's Cleavage, hilarous, should be published
Posted May 19, 2008 1:28 pm

rpcRe: great shots Dow!!

Voted 10/10

Met a few characters like that (incl. via SP :) ...EDIT IN: let's just say we don't hang out much together anymore after episodes to this kind of chestbeat.

That IS a great TR from Lady Wilson's Cleavage. That guy can write - side-splitting funny! Take care Dow.
Posted May 19, 2008 1:33 pm

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Submitted by Dow Williams
on May 19, 2008 12:20 pm

Image ID: 404911
Hits: 230 

Image Type(s): Rock Climbing



""You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know.""   --Rene Daumal   

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