Dr. Coolhead (10a RX) is one of my favorite routes on Zoo Wall. Too bad the first bolt is about 15-20 ft from the ground. After that, there is only one more bolt, for a total of two clips in 80 ft. People have come along and added bolts over the years, but they always get chopped in attempt to preserve the bold style of the time. The route was put up on lead by Duane Raleigh (editor/owner of Rock and Ice magazine). The photo is skewed a bit. It's not as steep as it looks. This is the actual angle.
Photo by son, Andrew.
Comments
[ Post a Comment ]| Martin Cash | Can you say stickclip? | | 
Voted 10/10 | :-) I wonder if they make a 30 footer. You can probably get an extention stick. Would that eleiminate the R/X rating?
Nice photo.
That dihedral crack looks like fun too. Is that a route? | | Posted Mar 22, 2004 4:15 pm |
 | | Martin Cash | Re: Can you say stickclip? | |
Voted 10/10 | Oops, you submitted the Dihedral route. Didn't see that. :-) | | Posted Mar 22, 2004 4:20 pm |
| | Alan Ellis | Re: Can you say stickclip? | | 
Hasn't voted | I just rechecked. It's only about 15-20 ft to the first bolt. Either way, if you stick-clip it, you haven't climbed the route in the style it was meant to be led. Mmmm.....points to ponder. | | Posted Mar 22, 2004 5:18 pm |
| | rpc | Re: Can you say stickclip? | | 
Hasn't voted | Nice shot Alan.
this reminds me of a route at Smith called "BBQ The Pope". The first clip is about 20-25 feet off the deck. The route is rated 10b (sustained climbing) and some climbers refer to the rating half jokingly as 10b/11c.
radek | | Posted Mar 23, 2004 8:03 pm |
| | Alan Ellis | Re: Can you say stickclip? | |
Hasn't voted | The climbing always seems more difficult when your clip is way above you. :-) | | Posted Mar 23, 2004 8:49 pm |
| | Brian Jenkins | Re: Can you say stickclip? | | 
Hasn't voted | Many don't know this but I like to refer to Radek (at what, 6'8"?) as the Human Stickclip.
(by the way, any time you want to clip that first bolt for me on BBQ Pope, I'd love to try that one. That start though has some pucker factor!) | | Posted Mar 23, 2004 10:07 pm |
| | rpc | Re: Can you say stickclip? | |
Hasn't voted | actually, even I (at 6'7" actually :) with a 10 foot clip stick were not able to reach that 1st bolt.
....no desire/ability to lead it anytime soon. | | Posted Mar 23, 2004 10:21 pm |
| | Brian Jenkins | Re: Can you say stickclip? | |
Hasn't voted | I have faith in you! All you need is a running start and a good leap. :- )
I hear you might be headed to Vantage too this weekend. Any truth to that rumor? | | Posted Mar 23, 2004 11:01 pm |
| | Martin Cash | Re: Can you say stickclip? | |
Voted 10/10 | Really? That's interesting.
Hmmm, I might have to get an extention stick for my stick clip before I head to Smith a week from Friday. | | Posted Mar 24, 2004 10:06 am |
| | Martin Cash | Re: Can you say stickclip? | |
Voted 10/10 | Bummer, I have other plans. Would be fun to hook up with you guys for sure. Another weekend. Have fun out there! | | Posted Mar 24, 2004 10:19 am |
| | rpc | Re: Can you say stickclip? | |
Hasn't voted | Hey Brian,
yeah, there WAS truth in that rumor.....however, the plans got changed. Think I mentioned to you that we've volunteered as assistants for mazamas basic moutaineering class (Apr - early May) and they're having a gathering this Sunday at 5pm (and a hike on Saturday). thought we could skip the sunday event but it's more important than we assumed.......in other words no Vantage for us this weekend. Are you going with Mark and Natasha? | | Posted Mar 24, 2004 7:44 pm |
| | Brian Jenkins | Re: Can you say stickclip? | |
Hasn't voted | Yep, headed out Friday after work. Bummer that you won't be there. Martin has plans too. Guess that means more open routes for me! : - ) Hope your hike and gathering are good though. Maybe we'll catch you in a week or two. | | Posted Mar 24, 2004 8:47 pm |
| | rpc | Re: Can you say stickclip? | |
Hasn't voted | Martin,
Missed this post earlier. So you're finally :) making a trip to Smith next week. Cool. Did you check out the book - what's at the top of your tick list? I'd be happy to suggest some routes that will keep you away from the bulk of the "zoo" (place was crazy crowded last Sunday).
Don't think we'll be there as we're assisting with a Mazamas course from now till 1st weekend in May. We'll just have to hopefully get together for some alpine rock in early summer (want to make a trip to your neighborhood to nail that Chimney Rock in ID sometime <- not sure if you've done that). | | Posted Mar 25, 2004 11:43 am |
| | Martin Cash | Re: Can you say stickclip? | |
Voted 10/10 | Hey Radek,
Yep finally making a trip! :-) Mishell and I are leaving Friday mid afternoon, and hiking in the gorge on Saturday. We will be at Smith Saturday night to Wednesday late morning. Too bad you can't make it.
Yes, would love some suggestions. Not doing Pioneer Route, since I have no aiders.
I've formulated a list of walls and routes that I'd like to try. Was planning on visiting the Testament Slab, Dihedrals, Lower Gorge, Red Wall, and a couple of others. Definately am going to try the Moonshine Dihedral, and BBQ The Pope. All the usual easy stuff too.
I was thinking of hitting something out of the way on Sunday, since it will be so busy, and then some of the more popular walls during the week. Sound like a good idea?
Martin | | Posted Mar 25, 2004 12:50 pm |
| | rpc | Re: Can you say stickclip? | |
Hasn't voted | Nice stretch of time!
Sounds like you have the right idea in terms of dealing with the crowds. Also, I think there will be a mazamas rock course going on that weekend so the crowd issues become even more important.
Less popular "teasures" I'd suggest for the weekend days would include:
1. Sky Chimney, 5.7 (think this is the stiffest 5.7 in the park, IMHO), 3P. Excellent climb.
2. Sky Ridge, 5.8, 2P (the "R" rating given by book is not really significant....it's on 5.4-5.5 terrain). 5.8 portion is face climbing and is well bolted. Favorite route in the park and easier than Sky Chimney.
3. In/Out of Harm's Way. 1 or 2P. 5.7 or 5.8. Mixed trad/sport.
4. Lost Fox. 5.8 (it's called 5.9 but it's not really that) in Staender's Ridge. 1P.
5. Desiderata. Staender's Ridge Sustained 5.9 with OW finish (have not led it; TR'd it).
6. First Kiss. 5.7. 5P sport climb on Kiss of Lepers Buttress (not in book).
7. Friday's Jinx. 2P 5.7. Upper pitch is excellent!
More Popular climbs:
1. Wherever I May Roam. 5.9, 5P, sport route. Not in book (it's in supplement you can pick up in climbing store in Terrebonne).
2. White Satin. 5.9, 3P trad. Have not done it. People seem to like it.
3. West Face Variation on Monkey Face (don't have to top out.....it's a fun climb in its own right). 5.8. 2 or 3P depending on variations.
4. Thin Air. P1 is trad (5.8); upper pitches are bolted (retrobolted). Have not done it yet.
5. Parking Lot Crack. 5.8 on Staender's Ridge. 1P.
6. Round River direct; lower 2P are 5.4 but the 3rd pitch is a nice sport 5.8.
7. Pack Animal. 2P 5.8. Great upper pitch!
Super Popular Routes (best left for weekdays or get an early start on wknds):
1. Spiderman. 5.7, 3P. Over-rated IMHO, but fun.
2. Moscow. 5.6, 2P.
3. Super Slab. 5.6, 3P. Have not done it (my wife has and liked it).
....anything pretty much in the Dihedrals is VERY popular, incl.
4. Lion's Jaw. First pitch is a great 5.8.
5. Moonshine D. (have not done it), 9
6. Karate Crack (have not done it), 10a crack
7. Cinamon Slab, 2P. 1st pitch is 5.6 trad; if you do 2nd pitch, take the bolted arete variation (c. 5.8) rather than the mediocre 5.5 crack.
8. Toys in the Attic. .9 crack (have not done it).
9. Lycopodophyta, Rabbit Stew, Bookworm. all are 1P 5.7 trad climbs. All fun.
10. New Testament. 10a crack. (have not done it).
If you're feeling good with the other 10a's, Zebra-Zion a 5P (I think) 10a mostly trad climb that is THE prize at Smith (and it's out of my league - have not done it).
Have fun and be sure to post photos.
| | Posted Mar 25, 2004 2:10 pm |
| | Martin Cash | Re: Can you say stickclip? | |
Voted 10/10 | Awesome info. Thanks! | | Posted Mar 25, 2004 4:17 pm |
| truchas | Tilt | | 
Hasn't voted | I can use Photoshop to take out the tilt. | | Posted Mar 23, 2004 11:45 pm |
| | Alan Ellis | Re: Tilt | |
Hasn't voted | Me too, but I didn't want to interfere with my son's photographic style. :-) | | Posted Mar 24, 2004 6:41 am |
| | Martin Cash | Re: Tilt | |
Voted 10/10 | Na, leave it. It makes you look hardcore, like you're sending a sick 12. :-) | | Posted Mar 24, 2004 10:04 am |
| The Lower Marmot | 20 comments | | 
Voted 10/10 | This picture now has 20 comments (and counting) and only 5 votes. Amazing. | | Posted Mar 25, 2004 4:37 pm |
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