SummitPost - Sacred Cows- 5.10b -- Photos, Diagrams & Topos

Sacred Cows- 5.10b/
A really fun and hard route for the grade. A trad roof crack at the far south reaches of Zen Wall. The rock at this end has some conglomerate in it and is not near as trustworthy as it is further north at the crag. The crack is bomber, but the face stuff is suspect on this route. Exceptional roof problem. You need a shoulder length sling at least to place on a 2" cam. As you make some hard stemming and jamming moves to place a 3" cam in the roof above, you do have some decking risk. Once you get the 3" placed, you are bomber and ready for the fantastic move over the roof. Better to not wear a helmet here as it is quite the squeeze. Once you are into the crack above (medium to large gear), the climbing is much easier, but again, on suspect rock when outside the crack. The crack is fairly wide, some arm barring. Someone removed one of the rappel hangers so continue above and left to the anchor of Karmic Justice.
Zen Wall, St. George, November, 2008