The crack is Test Piece 5.8,...

The crack is Test Piece 5.8,...

The crack is Test Piece 5.8, and the face in the sunlight (damn photographer :) is Adhesion 5.10-11.
scottfromcali
on Mar 29, 2004 11:45 pm
Image ID: 47737

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rpc

rpc - Mar 31, 2004 1:26 pm - Hasn't voted

looks overhung?

the 5.8 crack looks overhung?

i suppose it's 5.8 because you can stem off of the sides of the dihedral?

looks like it would suck up pro though.



nice route shot.

Dave K - Mar 31, 2004 1:43 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: looks overhung?

It's not really overhung. The most popular way up the route is to lieback it, but I've seen successful stemming, too. That flare is the crux of liebacking moves, requiring a switch to jams. It's usually toproped.

Dragger

Dragger - Mar 31, 2004 2:15 pm - Hasn't voted

Not Overhung, it's the camera angle

It's defintily not overhung, just climbed it a few days ago. The top 1/2 is actually slabby. Fun lieback crack though. Hand over hand, I can still feel every move! There is one point near the middle where a fist jam is appropriate, however.

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