Kris Solem on the F/A of A Good Day To Die.
"I placed two bolts there to protect the 5.11c section, which starts in a hole and finishes with a mantle. After pulling the mantle I set some gear in the featured horizontals above and came down to let Mr. Keesee (Guyzo) do the upper half of the route, which looked really steep and sustained. He climbed up and kept finding ok holds we could not see from the bottom. He could not stop and drill or place protection, and to my amazement just went for it. By the time he reached the ledge he was looking at an astronomical fall, but the climbing never exceeded 5.9. This lead earned the route both it's name and it's "X" rating. It was spring, 1992."
KS
Comments
[ Post a Comment ]| megla | 5.11c + X, Bravo! | | 
Voted 10/10 | I didn´t know you were That good.
Congratulations!
Cheers
Borut (ex Mr Kantuser) | | Posted Feb 9, 2009 4:52 pm |
 | | ksolem | Re: 5.11c + X, Bravo! | | 
Hasn't voted | Thanks... Keep in mind that, per my description, the section of the climb which earned the x grade was difficulty 5.9. The.11c section was relatively more safe... | | Posted Feb 9, 2009 5:10 pm |
| | megla | Re: 5.11c + X, Bravo! | |
Voted 10/10 | I can just imagine belaying that kind of a sight run out at a constant 5.9 heewh!
What is then the grade of the whole route? | | Posted Feb 9, 2009 5:28 pm |
| | ksolem | Re: 5.11c + X, Bravo! | |
Hasn't voted | I would call it 5.11c (5.9x.) Of course this is not the standard way to use the decimal system, but it works and most climbers will understand it.
Over on MountainPost someone is calling it 5.11b/c r/x. Whatever. I can't see where 80 feet to the ground is "R" ...
And yes, when Guyzo just took off with full commitment it was something to see.
Cheers.
| | Posted Feb 9, 2009 6:09 pm |
| | megla | Re: 5.11c + X, Bravo! | |
Voted 10/10 | How about 5.11c/5.9x.?
Replacing the() by a /
This may sound silly, talking about slashes and presentation, but it isn´t, keeping the name of the route in mind.
Yeah, the commitment!
Cheers. | | Posted Feb 9, 2009 6:27 pm |
| | Marcsoltan | Re: 5.11c + X, Bravo! | | 
Voted 10/10 | Borut,
Kris is a LOT better than anyone knows. He is just modest to a fault.
| | Posted Feb 10, 2009 12:25 am |
| Marcsoltan | Hi Kris,s | |
Voted 10/10 | I wish I was there to take a hundred photos.
I'm sorry I didn't make it to J-Tree to hook up. My wife and I spent a lot of time in Utah.
Looking as awesome as ever,
Marc | | Posted Feb 10, 2009 12:29 am |
| Guyzo | It's really a "R" | | 
Hasn't voted | Heck ... I just found this while searching for something else... Thanks for putting this up Kris. It was indeed a good day..... | | Posted Dec 11, 2009 5:33 pm |
| | ksolem | Re: It's really a | |
Hasn't voted | What were you searching for?
Hey guess what... If you go by Randy Vogel's definition of "R" rating (from his Joshua Tree guide,) it's not even an R.
"R Rating: If a route is poorly protected at the difficult sections,but not without some protection, it will be given an R rating. A fall on a R-rated route, at the wrong place, could result in a very long or serious fall that results in injury or death."
Whatever. Don't fall off up there.
I edited the page to "R." | | Posted Dec 14, 2009 2:20 pm |
|  Rate This Image Current Score: 87.94%  Loading... To Vote Image Data | Submitted by ksolem
on Feb 9, 2009 3:48 pm |
Image ID: 488044 Hits: 354 Loading... Image Type(s): Rock Climbing
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