3rd Pitch- 150’- 5.10/The crack straight up was no doubt the original line and looks to go at 5.7. However, the off width to the right looked a lot cleaner and more interesting, so we took that. By doing this variation in the route, you will find the crux moves of the day, several meters of un-protectable (except with a big bro or maybe a 6" cam) off width towards the top of the wall in front of you and to the right. The issue making the off width hard is size. It is not heel to toe for a mens 10-11. A mens 8 barely makes it. A “6 might protect, but we only had 5” gear with us. You can get a 5” inch in down low for a nice move or two at the start, but by the time you reach the crux section, any fall would result in decking. Send your smallest person on lead. Face the right wall at the crux and try to get a heel to toe jam going. Keep all your gear on your right side so you can eventually get your waist in as well. It will be a few meters of moves at the grade before you can get a piece in. Then a jug shows up and the climbing eases. Continue on easy, but dirty ground to some more trees. photo(s)
Chimney Sweep, 5.10, 7 Pitches, East Spur of Lady Mountain, Zion National Park, March, 2009