2nd-3rd Pitches- 165’- 5.7R/ I thought it more efficient to combine these two pitches. You have to run out the first one anyway, so the rope drag is not an issue. Stay out in the wide section of the chimney and use standard chimney technique facing the right wall at first and then switching to face the left wall about half way up the first 80’. I placed one large piece in the right wall before the switch. There won’t be much gear beside that; it is definitely a run out pitch. You hit a big ledge that separates the deep chimney below from a smaller section above. The crux move of this final 165’ could be the final mantle out of the chimney and up onto a belay ledge that also serves as the final belay for Spare Rib. This last 80’ does take gear. (photos)
Test Tube, 5.9, 3 Pitches, Wall of Cracks, Juniper Canyon, Red Rocks, May, 2009