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Starting the lead of pitch...

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Starting the lead of pitch one of Canary (May 15, 2004).

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peakbagger4	Double Rope??
Voted 10/10	Radek, Are you starting to use double rope? What size?
	Posted May 25, 2004 5:04 am


	rpc	Re: Double Rope??
	Hasn't voted	Jay, Good to see you're back on SP. We went to a twin rope set up. Using two 8.5mm ropes. (don't have to drag/carry a second line for long rap's).
		Posted May 25, 2004 11:22 am


	peakbagger4	Re: Double Rope??
	Voted 10/10	Right now I carry a 8.1mm for raps it is pretty small and not a hastle to carry. I still lead with a 10.5 have thought of going with two 8.1, but, I think it could be a rope management problem I may try it this summer. It would make it easy to bring up two seconds. I also feel I have to use a double fisherman with two sizes of rope instead of the EDK which could potentially create some rope stuck problems. I suspect two 8.5 are less likely to get stuck any truth to that? Any pointers?
		Posted May 27, 2004 8:37 am


	rpc	Re: Double Rope??
	Hasn't voted	Have not had major entanglement issues with two 8.5's so far. We pretty much just treat it as a single rope when coiling/reflaking it at belays. The only issue in the beginning was that they tended to twist together around each other. This problem seems to have mostly gone away as the ropes age/relax I guess? So far so good. We did end up getting smaller belay devices (we got two different ones - one is a DMM [which I don't like that much] and the other I don't recall who makes it [much better]).
		Posted May 27, 2004 10:18 am


	rpc	Re: Double Rope??
	Hasn't voted	...sorry Jay, missed one more part of your post... With very few exceptions, we've been using the double fisherman almost always (regardless of what two ropes we're tying together).....the "D" in "EDK" makes for some bad karma :) I noticed that most of the time if the ropes get stuck for us, it happens not because of the knot but rather (later on) because the loose end loops on something as it's flying down.
		Posted May 27, 2004 12:00 pm


	peakbagger4	Re: Double Rope??
	Voted 10/10	The nickname for the knot is due to improper tying. If loaded after tying, long enough tails are used, and both ropes are same diameter it has proved its strength. WIth two ropes of the same diameter I pretty much use it exclusively. When I use the 8.1 and 10.5 I use a double fisherman. I just may have to give the twin rope setup a try :-)
		Posted Jun 1, 2004 4:57 am

Klenke

Meticulous pro setting

Voted 10/10

I've never seen anyone get so close to his pro settings. It looks like you're inspecting every square millimeter of the crack to ensure its viability. Funny.

Posted May 25, 2004 1:47 pm

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