11th Pitch- 30m- 5.8R/ The “money” pitch. I challenge you to find a more unique alpine climbing setting (run out granite slab, glaciers, icefalls, spires, weather, etc!). Carefully traverse run out slab out right for 30 meters. You will have to step down on several occasions as it trends down and right. A whipper here will cost you some skin and maybe a backpack. I chose to smear the granite slab with my hands about a meter below the headwall itself. There are few features to work with at first but the traverse is fairly blank and by the time you start to get pretty damn nervous, you can step up to a shallow corner and clip a lone piton (2009). Continue down and over easier slab at that point to a cubical belay at the base of a more definitive corner. You can get in one solid .75” piece backed up with a piton (2009).
Cooper-Kor, V, 5.10, 18 Pitches, East Face of Pigeon Spire, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, British Columbia, August, 2009