| Bob Loomis leading the... | [ Sizes: Orig | Small | Thumb ] |
Bob Loomis leading the excellent Sex Party, 80 feet of perfect 10A hands. This is probably my favorite handcrack at Vantage. Bomber jambs the whole way up!
Comments
[ Post a Comment ]| rpc | Does it get wider? | | 
Voted 10/10 | Hey Martin,
So this one stays "nice" all the way - no nasty wide sections near top? (from the book it seems some of these Vantage cracks have "wide surprises" near the top).
Nice shot BTW - makes me want to go there! | | Posted Nov 17, 2004 4:42 pm |
 | | Martin Cash | Re: Does it get wider? | | 
Hasn't voted | Radek,
You should go lead this climb, it is great! It is perfect hand sized the entire way up. No wide sections, no hard insecure thin hands either. It is definately overgraded, don't worry about the 5.10A rating. I'd say 5.9- on a Leavenworth scale.
Pro: Take 2 sets of cams from 1.5 to 3" plus some medium hexes (if you got them). It is long like Party in Your Pants, so make sure you take enough.
The route is very sutained but there are a couple good rests on it. The rests are with your right foot stemmed off the Lingerie finger crack, and your left foot on an edge to the left of the Sex Party crack.
Let me know if you go this weekend, I will probably be there, since ice is nonexistent right now.
Cheers,
Martin | | Posted Nov 17, 2004 5:05 pm |
| | rpc | Re: Does it get wider? | |
Voted 10/10 | Martin,
thank you very much for the info - this thing looks awsome!
We got a red rocks trip starting this weekend but was thinking of heading out there the weekend AFTER thanksgiving. If there's still no ice around & you got nothing better to do, would be cool to meet up then.
Thanks again!
radek | | Posted Nov 17, 2004 6:03 pm |
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