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Stairway to Heaven
Route

Stairway to Heaven

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Stairway to Heaven

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Object Title: Stairway to Heaven

Route Type: Ice Climbing

Season: Winter

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: WI4

Number of Pitches: 4

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Liba Kopeckova

Created/Edited: Dec 27, 2011 / Jan 1, 2014

Object ID: 767812

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Page Score: 94.44%  - 47 Votes 

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Overview

Stairway to Heaven
  
This climb is one of the most popular ice climbs near the ghost town of Eureka in the San Juan Mountains. The climb is located on the western flanks of Peak 13,419 (northeast of the Outward Bound Hotel).

Eureka is an abandoned mining community nine miles northeast of Silverton on Hwy. 110. Highway 110 is a bit misnomer, as it is an unpaved road that connects Silverton to Lake City via Cinnamon Pass. The first section of the road is well maintained and accessible by low clearance 2WD vehicles. The road is kept open even in the winter, and there is a nice cross country ski trail next to it leading back to Silverton.

Stairway to Heaven is the very obvious, blue, staircase ice flow in the area - a most popular outing (classic). The route is commonly ascended in 4-8 pitches if you rope up from the very beginning. Otherwise, it is generally five to six rope 60 meter rope lengths.

Plan an early start. It is very likely that on weekends there will be other parties on this climb.

Elevation in Eureka: 9,862 feet (=3,006 meters)

There is high avalanche hazard on this climb, so always check snow condition prior venturing on this climb.

Northern San Juan Avalanche Forecast

Getting There

 
Silverton
silverton


From the Main Street in Silverton, continue onto good dirt road - Hwy 110 - which is snowplowed for the first 9 miles. Park at the large parking lot on the west side of the road. There is a dry toilet (hard to access in the winter since the door gets buried in the snow).
You can see Stairway to Heaven from the parking lot if you look northeast - it is the largest ice pathway on the western slopes of Peak 13,419.
Hike up on the snow filled road towards the Outward Bound Hotel. You have two options - continue on the higher road, pass the Stairway to Heaven climb, and watch for the footsteps leading to the less steep section of the gorge (about 0.9 miles from the parking lot). You have to cross the frozen river, and continue up the slopes towards the climb.
The 2nd option is more difficult, you have to cross the frozen creek below the Outward Bound Hotel, and continue on steep slopes towards the climb.


Stairway to Heaven
Nice view of Stairway to Heaven from the snow covered road.

TOPO Stairway to Heaven

Stairway to Heaven
Overview of Stairway to Heaven 

Route Description

Pitch 1: Climbs steep WI3, and is about 150 feet long. The ice is typically fat. Belay at the last bulge before it flattens out.

Pitch 2: WI2-3, about 200 feet long. Go as far as you can to the last step before the obvious curtain above. This pitch is very easy, and the climbing sections are short. We had to simu climb a short section to get to the tree anchor. Some people break it into two pitches for this reason.

Pitch 3: WI4, about 100 feet long. A steep and often wet pillar leads to a nice, protected spot directly after the pillar.

Pitch 4: Easy WI3. Fat ice takes one to where it just begins to flatten out on a snowy bench.

You can finish here and walk off left, or rappel the route.

Good though not difficult climbing awaits above. The final stretch is WI3, 165 feet. Climb up snowy bulges to the next large bulge of ice. We did not climb the last section since the ice did not appear to be well formed.

Some images from the climb

Stairway to Heaven, 1st pitch 1st pitch
Anchor - Stairway to Heaven 1st anchor and overview of 2nd pitch
Traverse on the 2nd pitch Scenery from 2nd pitch
Tree anchor Tree anchor at the top of 2nd pitch
Pitch 3 - Stairway to Heaven 3rd pitch
3rd pitch detail Detail of 3rd pitch
4th pitch, Stairway to Heaven 4th pitch
4th pitch, Stairway to Heaven 4th pitch looking down


The descent goes in five full 60 meter rappels. A chain and bolt anchor at the top gets you started. Reportedly there is a line of bolt anchors the whole way down on climber's right, but these get often covered by ice/snow. We found 3 bolted sections, and two trees.

You can also walk off up and left through the forest, and traverse right into prominent gully. I have not tried to walk off, and it appears that most parties descent via rappel.

Essential Gear

 
Descent from Stairway to Heaven
 
 
V thread detail
V-thread or Abalakov


Full rack of ice screws, V-thread tool, draws, screamers, webbing for v-thread.
Helmet, crampons, ice tools, harness, 2 sixty meter ropes.
Warm clothing, gloves (consider hand warmers).

External Links

Stairway to Heaven on Mountain Project

Weather

Find more about Weather in Silverton, CO Click for weather forecast

Images