Page Type: | Mountain/Rock |
---|---|
Lat/Lon: | 41.79500°N / 9.20727°E |
County: | Corsica |
Activities: | Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing |
Season: | Spring, Summer, Fall |
Elevation: | 4429 ft / 1350 m |
Geographical classification: Corsica - Corse > Bavella Massif > Punta di Caracutu
Punta di Caracutu
The wilderness surrounded by a vivid blue sea, the rough granite with its incredible “tafoni”, the forest of pino laricio: the superb beauty of the Bavella Massif landscape, regarded as one of the finest amongst the Mediterranean countries, is out of discussion. The admittance to this magnificent stone’s microcosm, quite a wonderful natural museum, is Col de Bavella, dominated by the stunning Aiguilles de Bavella, erected above the pine forest and drawing the eye of the climbers. At the Western end of Bavella massif, in the immediate vicinity (just below) of Punta di l'Acellu, the first one amongst the Aiguilles, it's situated Punta Caracutu, a little-known wild summit, but quite easily accessible from the Col de Bavella. This slim pillar offers two very interesting climbs on good quality granite with the advantage of being often sheltered from the eastern winds, that sometimes blow violently in the Aiguilles sector.
Coming from the village of Zonza in the direction of Col de Bavella, just a couple of kilometers before getting the pass, amongst the buttresses and crags located at the foot of Acellu it's clearly visible a beautiful characteristic pillar ending from the left towards a horizontal ridge that leads to the foot of the Arête de Zonza on Acellu: it's Punta di Caracutu.
Access to the island
The magnificent island of Corsica, l'Ile de Beauté (the Island of Beauty) belonging to France but much closer to Italy, can be easily approached by plane (airports both in Bastia on the Eastern coast and Ajaccio on the Western coast)and by ferry-boat from Livorno and Savona italian ports. The most convenient destination in Corsica to visit the Bavella area, one of the wildest region of the island, is the airport of Bastia if you’re getting there by plane; the same Bastia port if you’re getting there by ferry-boat.
Main entrance into Bavella group is Col de Bavella m. 1211.
Road approach to Col de Bavella
- From Bastia (Corsica Eastern coast) follow the road RN 198 towards Solenzara; a few kilometers before getting there, turn to right following D268 to Col de Bavella (km. 130 from Bastia).
- From Aiaccio (Corsica Western coast) follow the road RN 196 to Petreto, then N852 to Aullene, Quenza and Zonza (km. 90 from Aiaccio). From Zonza follow the road D268 to Col de Bavella.
Walking Approach
The starting point to reach Punta di Caracutu is Col de Bavella m. 1211. Wide parking area. It's possible to spend the night at the pass or getting there directly from Zonza, a small typical village situated in the South side of Col de Bavella (9 km. from the pass).
From Col de Bavella cross the meadows in the direction of the Aguilles de Bavella (West direction), ignore the GR20 “Alpine Variant” (yellow marks) and take instead the GR20, following the well-worn trail - descending - for about 20 minutes. When the main trail turns sharply right (towards th e NW), leave the main trail, exiting righward and following a not well worn path (cairns), rising along moderately steep slopes with sparse vegetation and heading to to a rounded rock ridge. Getting the second one of two collars along the trail, head to the left of the rock structure and traverse on the left slopes below the rock in the direction of the well visible pillar. Once reached a wide gully, climb it for about 50 meters of vertical gain to get a a big tree of "pino laricio". Traverse left the ravine, to get a terrace above the pedestal of the pillar (1 h and 15 min, from Col de Bavella).
Les chemins du vent - French scale
Difficulty: Alpine TD-, max 6a+ (5c obbl) - French scale
Route length: 250 m
Equipment: the first tower is partially fix equipped, while the second tower is very sparingly equipped - bring a set of friends and some slings
Exposure: East
First ascent: A. Dupaquis, J. Louis Fenouil august 2005
Starting point: Col de Bavella
A worthwile fine climb and certainly satisfying, on good granite, consisting of two distinct parts. The first pillar (5 pitches) is climbed on the right edge and is sufficiently equipped with fix. After a 40 m rappel, the route runs on a second pillar and become very sparingly equipped. Fast parties can eventually combine "Les chemins du vent" with the "Arête de Zonza" on Punta di l'Acellu, that can be quickly approached from the summit of Caracutu second pillar. Be careful because this second option involves a long day of climbing...