I am currently in Chaiten. The town seems to have certainly progressed since the initial summary. There are a few more hostels, restaurants, and businesses in general. Just a block down from the bust station, on Calle(street) Bernardo O'Higgens, there is a green bus that serves coffee and food. The folks who own the food bus, Tommy and Lotta, also own the tourist agency across the street, Natour. They would be happy to give you any tourist info you need and also lead hikes to the Volcano as well as kayak tours to see sea lions and Chilean Dolphins. If you hang out in the bus long enough you'll be sure to meet some locals who can probably give you info on how to access the many areas around town where you can hike, climb, or trailblaze.