OverviewVotli Vrh (2197 m) is part of the Loška Stena group.
When showing off Loška Stena, f.i. from the village of Log pod Mangartom or from Strmec, or from the Mangart summit, it is often difficult to explain which summit is which - except for Votli Vrh: that's the one sticking out of the array. Votli Vrh is entirely in the Koritnica valley, branching out from the main ridge line in front of Morež. Votli Vrh has two faces: the W face and the N face.
If Votli Vrh is easily recognizable, that is the only easy thing about it. Even the classical NW ridge (IV/III, 800m) requires an extra 500 m gain along the approach, plus a strenuous descent. Considering the history of the entire Loška Stena, the obvious NW ridge of Votli Vrh was one of the early FAs (1935). Since, five more routes were opened on the W face of Votli Vrh, three of which play with the ridge. Check the external link below for beta.
From Log or Strmec one sees the west face. The north face of Votli Vrh is behind the NW ridge, hidden to the view from the village. One needs to walk upstream into the uppermost part of the Koritnica Valley along a macadamized road to take a look at the north face (still further upstream come then Bedinji Vrh, Bavh and Plešivec). The Votli Vrh north face is 750 m or 800 m tall, depending on the sources, vertical to overhanging and not to mention, brittle.
The FA of the north face was performed in 1984 by Rado Fabjan, Igor Mezgec and Igor Škamperle. "Znamenje ob poti" (maybe: sign along the way) is a milestone of alpinism in Slovenia and was dedicated to the memory of Nejc Zaplotnik, one of the greatest Slovenian alpinists.
"... A wide range of technical equipment is recommended, also good nerves and the other psychophysical abilities. The route is a unique, "insanely on-topic" challenge for all who wish to be good free climbers."
"Despite the fact that the level of what is possible to climb is much higher today and the equipment much better, that is not observed on the north face, it still remains one of the most challenging rock faces in our mountains, where visits are very rare."
Getting ThereKoritnica Valley : Log pod Mangartom (alt. 650 m)
Bala Valley : Bavšica Trailhead (alt. 710 m)
RouteThe Morež standard (Bala Valley) is considered the toughest standard of the group. The Votli Vrh standard (Bala Valley) is not recommended. But if it must be... then rope and gear (and knowing how to use it!) are necessary. Start just below the Konjska Škrbina notch/saddle between Bedinji Vrh and Morež. The main idea is to follow the Morež ridge line. Cross the ever steeper (!) grassy slopes diagonally to the left, below the first major shoulder in the Morež ridge (this shoulder is called Mali Morež) and reach a smaller notch/saddle. Now leave the Morež ridge to the right, along a ridge branching outwards (W). First circle a rock formation to the right, slightly descending, and soon reach a cca 15 m drop (this is where gear comes in use). Next still descend, to a small saddle. The summit of Votli Vrh is now only a brief walk away, westward along a short ridge.
Red TapeHere (Park rules)
CampingList of camping places in Bovec and along the Trenta valley.
External LinksVotli Vrh on primorskestene.com, alpine climbing, beta, in Slovenian.
More External Links : Weather - National Park home page - Store: maps, literature & guiding services.