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Vrbanove spice
Mountain/Rock

Vrbanove spice

 
Vrbanove spice

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Julian Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.39022°N / 13.86097°E

Object Title: Vrbanove spice

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling, Via Ferrata, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 7900 ft / 2408 m

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Jan 30, 2005 / Jan 11, 2010

Object ID: 153629

Hits: 5494 

Page Score: 84.82%  - 19 Votes 

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What's New On This Page?

January 30th, 2005 - Initial setup of the page.

Overview

The name 'Vrbanove spice' is plural in Slovenian language. The ridge has actually two important summits: Visoka (high) Vrbanova spica, 2408m, and Spodnja (Lower) Vrbanova spica, 2299m.

The sharp ridge of Vrbanove spice is dividing the upper part of Kot valley from the valley behind Cmir. Actually this is only the upper part of a long crest, which NE of Spodnja Vrbanova spica continues over Pozgana Mlinarica, towards the main valley of Sava river. Even if the word 'spica' in Slovenian language means 'a sharp peak', 'spitze' in German the two peaks are primarilly not mountains for hard (technical) climbing. Over the ridge goes a nice secured route, exposed and not just easy, but still, the two mountains are accessible to all with a clear head and some experience. This route is one of the most beautiful ascends on the high parts of the Triglav group where the huts, supporting the Triglav ascent stand

As opposed to reaching the highest point over the whole ridge, ascending there from SW, from Stanicev dom (hut), 2332m, is easy.

In the short N walls of Spodnja Vrbanova spica there are some technical climbs, which were in 1980's almost all climbed by the famous Slovenian climber Francek Knez, but today they are not much popular.

From the ridge we have a beautiful view on the north wall of Rjavina, which is just across the upper part of the Kot valley.

Getting There and Routes Overview


Triglav subgroup with the main summits and huts.


For the general orientation see the Julian Alps group page and the Triglav subgroup page!

The highest point can be in 20 minutes reached from Stanicev dom, 2332m. This hut can be reached through any of the three valleys: Vrata, Kot or Krma by marked paths or through the valley Za Cmirom (Behind Cmir) - not marked.

The route over the whole ridge can be done only from the Kot valley, where you park on the altitude of some 950m.


Vrbanove spice and the surroundings

Red Tape

The mountain is in the Triglav National Parc, otherwise no limitations.

When To Climb

In summer and autumn - the best months are July to October.

For weather see here.

Even better site is wunderground - here's the direct link to Kredarica station, 2515m (below Triglav summit).

Huts and Camping

Camping in Triglav National Parc is prohibited. In Vrata valley there are frequent checks for offenders. Mountain huts in the neighbourhood are:

Triglavski dom na Kredarici, 2515m, (04) 2023181,
Stanicev dom, 2332m, (050) 614772,
Aljazev dom v Vratih, 1015m, (04) 5891030, (031) 384011, (031) 384013.
Kovinarska koca v Krmi, 870m, (050) 631989, accessible by car.

Images

Last light on KredaricaRjavinaEvening on the Kredarica...Spodnja (Lower) Vrbanova...Above the Kot valleyAfter climbing Spodnja...View from Macesnovec (1926 m/...
Visoka Vrbanova spica from...Vrbanove špiceRjavina from CmirFrom the left. Visoka...Vrbanove spice from the...From the left: Rjavina ridge,...