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Vrh Rup
Mountain/Rock

Vrh Rup

 
Vrh Rup

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.38911°N / 13.62224°E

Object Title: Vrh Rup

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 7365 ft / 2245 m

 

Page By: borut

Created/Edited: Aug 21, 2014 / Oct 31, 2014

Object ID: 909918

Hits: 236 

Page Score: 79.04%  - 10 Votes 

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Overview

Vrh Rup (2245 m) is part of the Loška Stena array, a group of mountains described on the Loška Stena page.

Vrh Rup, Koritnica drop
View of the village of Log pod Mangartom from the summit of Vrh Rup.

In the past, only locals (mostly hunters) knew a few ways of reaching the Loška Stena ridge from the Koritnica Valley, from the village of Log pod Mangartom. In 1909, the Slovenian mountaineer and author Henrik Tuma became the first tourist to reach the Loška Stena ridge, accompanied by members of the Černuta family. The route starts in the village of Log itself (650 m) and after passing by the Parabola waterfall, it manages up the green cone seen on the image below. The crux is the upper wall which Tumova/Lovska manages diagonally from r. to l. and so reaches the summit of Vrh Rup (2245 m). For beta, please see the External Links section below. Note that the gully between Oblica and Vrh Rup ("Grapa med Oblico in Vrhom Rup") is a winter classic among alpinists - so as the ice line that forms on the pedestal.

Koritnica overview
Vrh Rup (above the green cone) 
Loška Stena in the Koritnica valley
NW overview



On the Bala valley side, there is supposed to be an unmarked hunter's "path" that splits left off the marked path, towards the end of the meadow just above Logje (Logje - not mix up with "Log" which is on the other side, in the Koritnica valley - is a hamlet which one comes by soon above the Bavšica trailhead). After managing the initial slopes, the way is apparently heading left (SW) below a wall, next to continue in the same direction, ascending diagonally towards Velika Rupa. Velika Rupa is a cirque like formation (seen from above in the photo here below). From there to the ridge (Vrh Rup) the way is supposedly quite evident, managing the steep slope by switchbacking along bribes of game/hunter trails. This info is not first hand, it is just a story I heard - so be cautious! Note that from Logje, there might yet be another path (unmarked, cairns) also splitting left, but only leading into the forest.
 
Vrh Rup, Bala drop
Velika Rupa (SE)








The most usual way of reaching Vrh Rup, though quite rare in fact, is by crossing the ridge, either from the SW (coming from Vrh Krnice and Oblica), or from the NE (coming from Briceljk and Oltarji). The SW option is the tough one, an ascent of Vrh Krnice being an adventure in itself and some authors mentioning the notch between Oblica and Vrh Rup as the crux of the entire Loška Stena ridge crossing. This latest statement was refuted though by a hunter I met. He said that if one avoids difficulties on the NW side (Koritnica valley side), the passage is not that difficult. Again: caution, this is wild terrain.

The standard ascent (and descent) is the ridge crossing coming from the NE, coming from Briceljk and Oltarji.

Getting There

Bala Valley : Bavšica Trailhead (alt. 710 m)

Koritnica Valley : Log pod Mangartom (alt. 650 m)

Route

First reach Briceljk, then cross to Oltarji. From the Oltarji summit, quite simply continue along the ridge (southwestwards) to the summit of Vrh Rup.

Red Tape

Here (Park rules)

Camping

List of camping places in Bovec and along the Trenta valley.

External Links

Beta
Vrh Rup northwest face on primorskestene.com, alpine climbing, beta, in Slovenian.

More External Links : Weather - National Park home page - Store: maps, literature & guiding services.

Dr. Henrik Tuma

Images

Vrh Rup, Bala dropVrh Rup NW faceOblica from Vrh RupVrh Rup, Koritnica dropKoritnica overview