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Vrh Rup
Mountain/Rock

Vrh Rup

 
Vrh Rup

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.38911°N / 13.62224°E

Object Title: Vrh Rup

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 7365 ft / 2245 m

 

Page By: borut

Created/Edited: Aug 21, 2014 / Jun 18, 2015

Object ID: 909918

Hits: 439 

Page Score: 79.04%  - 10 Votes 

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Overview

From a hiking/scrambling point of view, Vrh Rup (2245 m) is quite out of reach. It also is not a prominent peak. Vrh Rup is probably more often reached by alpinists, mostly in winter, or along the ridge traverse, or by hunters. Nevertheless, it stands out historically. In the past, only locals (mostly hunters) knew a few ways of reaching the Loška Stena ridge from the Koritnica Valley, from the village of Log pod Mangartom.

Koritnica overview
Vrh Rup, central. Loška Stena just above the village of Log (Koritnica valley).


Vrh Rup is part of the Loška Stena group of mountains.

Koritnica Valley Climbs

In 1909, the Slovenian mountaineer and author Henrik Tuma became the first tourist to reach the Loška Stena ridge, accompanied by members of the Černuta family. The route starts in the village of Log itself (650 m) and after passing by the Parabola waterfall, it manages up the green cone seen in the image here above. The crux is the upper wall which Tumova/Lovska manages diagonally from r. to l. and so reaches the summit of Vrh Rup.


Dr. Henrik Tuma

Vrh Rup gained again in renommée when winter ascents of the gully between Vrh Rup and Oblica ("Grapa med Vrh Rup in Oblico") grew popular. "Lukežev led", an ice line (WI) that forms on the pedestal, is also a winter classic.

For Beta, please check the External Links section below.

Bala / Bavšica Valley Routes

Vrh Rup standard ascent
Start from the Oltarji summit (!) and follow its SW ridge, an easy and slight descent. There is no major notch separating both summits. Continue the traverse along the Vrh Rup NE ridge (short), the terrain now more demanding, and exposure growing. This is the simplest way of reaching Vrh Rup, though long and in fact quite rare. In 2014, there was no cairn on the summit. Descend by reversing (return to Oltarji, then Briceljk, etc.)


Vrh Rup, Koritnica drop
The village of Log (Koritnica valley) seen from the Vrh Rup ridge.



Other options -to update
1. Vrh Rup along the SW ridge (coming from Oblica) is a tough option. Some authors mention that the notch between Oblica and Vrh Rup is one of the cruxes of the entire Loška Stena ridge crossing. This statement, though, was refuted by a hunter I met. He said that if one avoids difficulties on the NW side (Koritnica valley), the passage is not that difficult. Caution - this is wild terrain. Note that reaching the Oblica summit (via Vrh Krnice!) is quite long an adventure in itself.

2. On the Bala valley side, there is supposed to be an unmarked hunter's "path" that splits left off the marked path towards the end of the meadow just above Logje. "Logje" is a hamlet one reaches soon above the Bavšica trailhead (Logje is not to mix up with "Log" which is in the Koritnica valley). Above the meadow, and after managing the initial slopes, the way apparently heads left (SW) below a wall, and next continues in the same direction - ascending diagonally towards Velika Rupa ("big hole"). From Velika Rupa to the ridge (Vrh Rup), the way is supposedly quite evident, managing the steep slope by switchbacking along bribes of game/hunter trails. Note that this info is not first hand - please be cautious.


Vrh Rup, Bala drop
Velika Rupa, above the Bavšica trailhead

Getting There

Bala Valley : Bavšica Trailhead (alt. 710 m)

Koritnica Valley : Log pod Mangartom (alt. 650 m)

Red Tape

Here (Park rules)

Camping

List of camping places in Bovec and along the Trenta valley.

External Links

Beta : Vrh Rup northwest face on primorskestene.com, alpine climbing, in Slovenian.

More External Links : Weather - National Park home page - Store: maps, literature & guiding services.

Images

Vrh Rup, Bala dropVrh Rup NW faceOblica, from Vrh RupVrh Rup, Koritnica dropKoritnica overview