Wamanripa--Peru (2017)

Add Heading Here

SAN MATEO, or WAMANRIPA -- 1 DAY CLIMB

WEDNESDAY:

Met with Benito and prepped for the San Mateo climb. We went to rent mountain boots and then to his apartment to fit the rest of the equipment. The taxi would cost the same—80s to go and wait, 80 s to take us back. Benito charged 90us to guide. I thought this was good as we would go by ourselves. The cost to go with a tour agency would be about the same IF there were at least 4 other climbers. BUT, if any other climber can’t make it up the climb, all the others have to quit the climb as well, so paying to go solo and getting your personal guide is worth it. Benito charged 20us for renting the equipment which I thought was too much. I think you can find a rental list from the agencies to compare. Benito is such an experienced guide, I did not mind though.

THURSDAY:

Benito and the taxi met me at the hostel lobby by 2:00am to leave. It takes about 1.5 hours to drive to Cuaraz and then get to the area to start hiking. We got to the area at 3:40am. Benito wanted to wait a while until some of the fog left (The first part of the climb requires scrambling up wet rocks).

For the climb, I wore a synthetic base layer, polyurethane layer, and a down insulated layer for my body. My feet were warm the whole time with a wool liner and a wool hiking sock—the mountain boots I rented kept the feet warm. For my head I wore a balaclava and the down hood form my jacket. I wore a wool glove liner and refrigerator gloves for my hands and that was enough, even at the summit I could go without my gloves for the time.

NOTE: My wool glove liners I bought from Zpacks (http://www.zpacks.com). The Possumdown gloves really do a great job).

Part 1: At 4:15, we started off with headlamps. We each carried a day pack with our outer layer, climbing gear, some water. Walk across a flat terrain for about 2-300 yards.

Part 2: At 4:45, start climbing-scrambling up and across rocks in the dark. Nothing technical but you have to be careful with slippery parts. Benito, who has been up this mountain many times, led up as if it were clear as day. The sun rises behind the mountain, but the light allows you to turn off your head lamp by 6:00am.

Part 3: The beginning of the glacier. We reached this by 6:30am. I put on my 1-piece motorcycle suit as an outer layer. We put on our climbing equipment and boots, roped up and started up the glacier. It’s not technical, so watch You Tube videos of climbing with ice picks if you have not done it before. Benito wanted to make it to the summit before the sun came up over the mountain. We reached the summit by 7:40am. I was sweating, and with my outer layer on, I was not cold at all. After 25 minutes on top, my hands started to feel a chill, and my head was feeling the light air, so we started down. At the end of the glacier, we took off the outer-layers and climbing equipment, repacked, and climbed on down. We took some breaks and chatted on the way down.

NOTE: Benito told me that climbers who are starting up in the daylight get caught by the direct sunlight finishing up and coming down, and that the sun drains the energy from your body and mind, making the hike much more difficult. He said it is very important to beat this by starting up when we did, which means don’t leave Huaraz later than 2:00am.

Our taxi was waiting for us and took us back to Huaraz by 3:00pm. Washed and dried out, and ate.