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Warren Peak Climber's Log

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tdub354climbed with jiggs
This is a great mtn range.
Posted Oct 6, 2013 5:43 pm

distressbarkvia Edith Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2012

distressbark

Set up camp at Edith Lake and headed straight uphill from our tent site. Topped out on the ridge just west of the "false summit" at 9,400+ feet. Easy traverse and climb along the ridge to the top of Warren. Threatening clouds forced us off the summit early, which was unfortunate, 'cause the views were spectacular! What a great peak.

Descended to the saddle between Warren and the false summit; from there we headed straight downhill, following dry drainages and game trails to the woods just above Edith Lake. Once we hit the trail, we were back at camp in less than 10 minutes. Enjoyed a brief hail storm, sporadic thunder showers, and a double rainbow at Edith Lake. Awesome trip!
Posted Jul 29, 2012 6:16 pm

urnotrealGreat Trip  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2012

urnotreal

Came in and ran up from Edith Lake. My first time in the Pintlers and got rewarded with some amazing views and perfect weather. Met some Erretts at Johnson Lake that night and spent four more days hiking all the way around this guy.
Posted Jul 24, 2012 12:56 am

mtn earClimb with Kids  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2007

mtn ear

Summited with my son Frank and his friend Jake. Both were 8. Spent night camped at Edith Lake. Jake's first overnight backpack!
Posted Apr 10, 2011 10:53 am

MTfred19SW face from Edith Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2008

MTfred19

Camped at Edith Lake. Lightning and hail on the way down from the summit!
Posted Mar 5, 2011 2:02 pm

lonewolf2401Warren Peak via Tamarack Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2009

lonewolf2401

This was one of the most incredible trips of my life. For four days I had the Carpp and Tamarack drainages all to myself. Not another soul, save a fly fisherman I happened across for 10 minutes at Tamarack.
I followed the north shoreline of Tamarack around so I could access the talus slopes below Porter Ridge.
Then I made a diagonal traverse until I topped out on the ridge, joining the normal route. This was simple class 1 or 2, and made for a much quicker climb.
The climb was very enjoyable, with the views rewarding you the whole way along the ridge. A fair amount of wind on the summit section, but can't complain.
On the way down, I reached the bottom of the summit ridge, and decided to "short cut it" down the first gully before the prominent humps on the ridge. It was a short cut, but in distance only.
The mental drain trying to keep from breaking an ankle on all that talus and scree was a pain, and the going pretty slow. Since I was all alone, I wanted to make sure I was careful, and not ruin this trip with a rescue!
If you enjoy talus, go for it, otherwise you would be better advised to just reverse the route, and run down the ridge.
Views from the top are incredible! Saw two new fires in the distance that had just started. I pray this area never burns.
Anyway, I will post my photos soon, thanks and climb safe
Posted Sep 19, 2009 1:04 pm

alpine climberclear skies  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2008

alpine climber

Climbed Warren and then spent the night at Edith Lake. The Middle Fork trailhead was incredibly busy from what I'm used to. Fun day for 10,000+.
Posted Jul 26, 2008 5:54 pm

Tom FralichN Face Couloir (solo)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2008

Tom Fralich

Hiked in to Warren Pass and made camp near the tarn below the route. Only got down to about 39F overnight, so the snow was still sloppy at 5AM. Left the tent at around 5:30 and got to the summit at 7AM. Didn't find anything close to 60 degrees...45 degrees at best. Descended the whole couloir facing out with a fun glissade at the bottom. Saw a ranger near Carrp Lake on the hike in, but otherwise, not a soul.
Posted Jun 24, 2008 4:35 pm

mountainjuncoWarren peak  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2006

mountainjunco

Climbed from Tamarack lake up east ridge, I think.
Posted Feb 1, 2008 2:16 pm

aintlifegrandForget which route, easy hiking route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 4, 2005

aintlifegrand

fun winter snow slog
Posted Mar 23, 2007 6:21 pm

T SharpNorth Couloir  Sucess!

T Sharp

Great trip with the Rocky Mountaineers. Met Luke Casady [RIP] on that climb and we became fast friends and partners. We got stormed on on the descent, lightning and graupel, Luke and I were faster that everyone else and had to wait in horrible conditions for everyone to join us at the tarn.
Posted Jun 2, 2006 4:51 am

kyledodRoute Climbed: Edith Lake Route Date Climbed: August 2004  Sucess!

kyledod

Spent the night at Edith Lake, then scambled up the peak the next day. Cool cloudy weather, but we did not see another person the entire trip.
Posted Sep 20, 2005 8:34 pm

Jerry LRoute Climbed: North Face Couloir Date Climbed: July, 2005

Jerry L

We hiked in and set-up camp at Carrp Lake. We decided to go ahead for the summit that afternoon. We made it to the base of the mounatin, hiked thru the loose rock, and then headed up the snow couloir for several hundred vertical feet. We then decided that we should have brought along our crampons, so we bagged the summit attempt and headed down. As we neared camp, we noticed a forest fire in the distance (towards my truck), so we decided to pack it in, and we hiked back to the truck, and then drove back to Butte. One long day in some great country.
Posted Aug 9, 2005 9:08 pm

montanaboyRoute Climbed: Edith Lake route Date Climbed: August 6, 2005  Sucess!

montanaboy

A nice trail, a sunny day, a wide open alpine route, friendly people on the mountain, a sea of peaks and lakes to view from the summit - all the things that make Montana great.
Posted Aug 9, 2005 12:10 am

SaintgrizzlyRoute Climbed: Tamarack Lake up; descending via Porter Ridge Date Climbed: September 27, 2004  Sucess!

Saintgrizzly

What an absolutely terrific, beautiful mountain! Wonderful views in the distance of the Bitterroots, Big Hole Range, and the always incredible Pioneer Mountains--and all this from the fifth highest peak in the greater Anaconda-Pintler Wilderness area!

Long, long day, begun before the sun came up, and us returning to vehicles almost 2 hours after dark. Climbed with fellow SPer Cory (pintlerpro) for the first time, and just past Tamarack Lake, we took a very enjoyable route up the mountain, which gave us class three, with a bit of lower class four work; much more interesting and fun than just going up the couloirs!

Best weather of the past three or four weeks, with enough snow having melted during the recent weather moderation that footing wasn't a problem, and summit weather, though cool, was quite nice! All in all, a great day on a great peak!

Posted Sep 29, 2004 8:50 am

pintlerproRoute Climbed: All Ridges and Faces

pintlerpro


I'v bivied up on the summit and small bats come out of the rocks and try to get in your sleeping bag.

Good summit , Good veiws of 3 major mountain ranges in Idaho and Mt.



I have been up Warren Peak between 20 to 25 times now.

-first climbed when I was 13 years old

-5 winter time ascents all solo.

-2 times in 1 day.(dont ask)

-made the summit in every month
Posted Jun 30, 2004 11:16 am

hgrapidRoute Climbed: via Edith Lake Date Climbed: August 2001  Sucess!

hgrapid

Permit me to recount a short story from going up this great peak. Me and a friend found our way up the peak a few weeks earlier on a perfectly clear day. This time, I climbed with my supervisor, a really cool guy, and did the 17 mile round trip in a day. On the summit we got caught in a lightning storm. Dark, storm clouds punished surrounding mountains with rain and hail and electric fury. At the summit of Warren is a rock pile where you can sit down and have the back of your head protected. We sat there to wait the storm out. It got closer and closer until we could see lightning right in front of our face. 5 miles away, 3 miles away, 1 mile away, CRAP! It hailed on us for 5-10 minutes. Then we made our way down the mountain, scurrying down wet rock. I was not scared. It was an exciting experience though.
Posted Mar 22, 2004 10:34 am

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