Route Climbed: The Wasteland Date Climbed: Dec. 28, 2005
We did this the day after Warpaint expecting a quick cruise. We actually found this to be more of an adventure than Warpaint (a mostly bolted 10c). The climbing is not hard, but there are substantial runouts (several places you're pulling 5.8 moves with small pro waaay below your feet) and you don't want to fall on these chickenhead-studded faces (they would f... you up!!!). Also there are 2 essentially full on hanging gear/chickenhead belays. There's not a single piece of fixed HW on this route. Swapped leads with Shirley (who got the even pitches) and we both ended up with 1 spicey pitch each (#3 mine; #4 hers). Green calls this "the best 5.8 in AZ". Have not climbed much in AZ, but it was pretty damn sweet. Exposed and sustained at the grade. More fun/memorable than Warpaint IMHO. TR of trip.
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe