ApproachTake the West Face Approach. This route is between Tulgye Wood and McCarthy West Face. It is easily identified as it is a right facing corner that appears to end at a roof.
Pitch 1. ( 155 ft., 5.11b) Climb this right facing corner, up to the roof and over left to a spacious belay ledge with a 2 Big Bolt anchor. This pitch is well protected and involves finger jams, hand jams, stemming, face holds and a simply horrendous move to the left, under the roof, to gain the belay ledge. Clip the bolts and know that you have just passed a stiff test..
Finish. Rap out or continue up Tulgey Wood, or pull a top rope on A Bridge Too Far (5.11d) or try a top rope on the face climb right beneath you Mystery Express (5.13)