Wedge Mountain is the highest peak in the Garibaldi Provincial Park. It is a very popular climb near Whistler B.C. It provides a wide and somewhat complex north face where many routes are established. The mountain offers a variety of possibilities from back country skiing, snowboarding and downhill skiing. The most popular route on the mountain is the Northeast Arete (See Route Information).
The peak was first climbed in 1974 by Geoff Mumford and Ed Zenger via Northeast Face. In 1980, PETER CHRZANOWSKI made the first ski descent via the West Couloir . The mountain offers a number of routes, mainly basic snow and ice travel. Standard mountaineering gear is needed in the winter months.
The turn off for the Wedgmount Lake trail is located on Highway 99, about 1.2miles North of Emerald Estates, the most northern neighbourhood in Whistler. The turn-off is well marked on the highway. Take a right at the turn-off and follow the dirt road to the trailhead. A vehicle with high clearance is recommended. From the trailhead, the well marked trail climbs 1200m to the hut at Wedgemount Lake. From here you can gain access to the north face of the peak.
The nearest major airport is located in Vancouver, BC. From there it is about a 2 hour drive to the Whistler area.
The hut is often occupied in the summer months. Be prepared and bring a tent or bivy sack.
When To Climb
June through September offer good conditions for summer climbing. Some people climb and ski in this area year round as well.
Camping is allowed near Wedgemount Hut and also sometimes the hut can provide shelter if not occupied. Estimate that hut could comfortably fit 6 people and gear.
bivouac.com has routes, photos, conditions, etc.
Whistler Guide Service
Full Set of Pictures
Online Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia.
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