4:30AM departure Bellavista. Conditions: 40cm snow fall 7 days ago. Now 10cm left on glacier. 30cm left on top. S ridge up from Bellavista via Teufelsegg and Hintereisjoch. 2 hours to get to crampon point 3210m. Early departure is good choice because glacier was still cold and hard now, people who had departure 7AM from Bellavista went through snow bridges.
After 2,5 hours from crampon point (breaks included) we got to the summit. S flank is steep, we were lucky with around 20cm snow. Up the snow flank strong winds. Top ridge rocky with snow leftovers and 2- climbing. Down we kept left on the N ridge to climb down grade 2 with sketchy small loose stones for about 30m descent, then went right to quite steep E-NE flank. About 20 cm of snow made us go down this flank quickly without problems, beneath the snow though we could feel the ice. Late in season without fresh snow this could be harder but we were lucky with snow. Maybe stay to the rock ridges late season without snow.
Crevasses to cross from the Weisskugeljoch down, some small some big or with snow bridges but easily jumpable. Vernaglwand up, look for the white marks BRBG. Easy and safe enough in dry conditions cause there's a via ferrata cable. Glacier to Brandenburgerhaus was easy to navigate and we walked kinda straight forward, crevasses were easy to see but bring a rope. Cool tour very recommended. Took us 9 hours.
bserk - Jul 17, 2017 3:31 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2015
Fun acclimatization mountain tour
Did this one as an easy acclimatization for Wildspitze, fun tour with good views.
alpinbeta - Sep 20, 2014 9:19 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2008
North Ridge
From Rifugio Pio XII
andrea.it - Apr 26, 2013 8:00 am Date Climbed: Apr 23, 2013
ski route
Ski route from refuge Bellavista
mvs - Mar 31, 2013 4:50 am Date Climbed: Mar 29, 2013
From Hochjoch Hospiz
Very nice ski tour up the long Hintereisferner. Strong wind at the summit, though it abated enough to let me switch to crampons and axe to go over to the true summit with some grade II climbing. Great visibility all around! The weather window ended as I skied away, clouds dropping rapidly.
Silvia Mazzani - Oct 21, 2012 10:08 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 1998
North Ridge
A beautiful ascent from Rif. Pio XI.
mpa - Jul 23, 2012 3:43 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2012
normal route from Oberettes hut
Taking the normal route from Oberettes hut on a perfect day, very few people seen.
I started together with a good friend and a local guide from the Brandenburgerhaus. We crossed the Gepatschferner (only took a more West route instead of going more to the east.), went down the Vernaglwand. After we descended the Vernaglwand we continued on the Langtaufererferner up to the Weisskugeljoch. From this point we crossed the Hintereisferner to the Hintereisjoch. From the Hintereisjoch the last part to the summit through deep but weak snow(it was about +5Celsius)steep up to the ice/snow ridge. On the ridge we had to be carefull because of the 'wechten' (don't know the english translation) they were tricky because of the soft snow. Last part some climbing to the top. A wonderful view over the Alps. We descended following the Hintereisferner in total to the Hochjochhospiz and back to Vent. It took us in total 11.5h, climbing/walking time.
selinunte01 - Jan 18, 2009 12:34 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2005
Weißkugel summit at last
I´ve been waiting for this since 1981 !
We took the route from Weißkugelhütte across Langtauferer Ferner and Hintereisjoch. There was a nasty ice slope below Hintereisjoch due to the late season. Great mountain.
Watched some heavy icefall down from Gepatsch Glacier onto Langtauferer Glacier on our way down. Later on there was some heavy rockfall out of Vernaglwände, boulders in the size of little houses came crashing down the slopes. Climate warming has started .....
hupfi - Apr 24, 2008 3:37 pm Date Climbed: Mar 30, 2008
via Weisskugelhut
Climbed the Weisskugel via Weißkugelhut, Weisskugeljoch and Hintereisjoch. On the way down we crossed the Matscher, climbed to the Baerenbartjoch and skied down the Baerenbartferner. Nice weather, but strong winds on the summit (Foehn).
Trip Report (only in german): http://www.martinhupfauf.com/wordpress/?p=478
more Pics:
http://fotoalbum.martinhupfauf.com/2008/2008-03-29%20Schitour%20Weisskugel/index.html
reinhard2 - Dec 1, 2007 4:38 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 1981
Traverse NW-wall - normal
From Weisskugel hut, NW wall up, normal way back to Weisskugel hut down. Impressing and recommendable tour. Date approximate.
We went from Teufelsegg on the ridge and then down the Hintereisferner glacier, towards Hintereisjoch and then up the final slope below the summit.
We climbed the final ridge and reached the summit on foot.
From here we enjoyed a wonderful 360° skyline, all over the Alps.
That was simply amazing.
Very sunny day and great snow... this is a lucky year!
Route Climbed: normal east ridge Date Climbed: aug 1991
Alone, from Hochjoch Hospiz, I met half a dozen more mountaineers coming from the N routes, near the top. Fine weather while the sun rose, getting somewhat too cloudy for nice pictures as the morning got to its end.
Route Climbed: Brandenburger Haus >> Normal Route Date Climbed: 18. August 2002
Gosh this was one of my longest days in my life:
Brandenburger Haus >> Summit via Normal Route >> Weisskugel Hut >> Kauner Valley. Over 25km (only horizontal!) in high alpine terrain. I was really wasted in the end ... but a nice trip
jdegroot - Sep 8, 2023 1:47 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2023
Traverse S -> NE to Brandenburgerhaus4:30AM departure Bellavista. Conditions: 40cm snow fall 7 days ago. Now 10cm left on glacier. 30cm left on top. S ridge up from Bellavista via Teufelsegg and Hintereisjoch. 2 hours to get to crampon point 3210m. Early departure is good choice because glacier was still cold and hard now, people who had departure 7AM from Bellavista went through snow bridges.
After 2,5 hours from crampon point (breaks included) we got to the summit. S flank is steep, we were lucky with around 20cm snow. Up the snow flank strong winds. Top ridge rocky with snow leftovers and 2- climbing. Down we kept left on the N ridge to climb down grade 2 with sketchy small loose stones for about 30m descent, then went right to quite steep E-NE flank. About 20 cm of snow made us go down this flank quickly without problems, beneath the snow though we could feel the ice. Late in season without fresh snow this could be harder but we were lucky with snow. Maybe stay to the rock ridges late season without snow.
Crevasses to cross from the Weisskugeljoch down, some small some big or with snow bridges but easily jumpable. Vernaglwand up, look for the white marks BRBG. Easy and safe enough in dry conditions cause there's a via ferrata cable. Glacier to Brandenburgerhaus was easy to navigate and we walked kinda straight forward, crevasses were easy to see but bring a rope. Cool tour very recommended. Took us 9 hours.
luciezr - Jan 28, 2019 12:56 pm
Weisskugel Nordkante from Melagpretty hard one-day trip:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lf7l9yb-5Q4
bserk - Jul 17, 2017 3:31 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2015
Fun acclimatization mountain tourDid this one as an easy acclimatization for Wildspitze, fun tour with good views.
alpinbeta - Sep 20, 2014 9:19 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2008
North RidgeFrom Rifugio Pio XII
andrea.it - Apr 26, 2013 8:00 am Date Climbed: Apr 23, 2013
ski routeSki route from refuge Bellavista
mvs - Mar 31, 2013 4:50 am Date Climbed: Mar 29, 2013
From Hochjoch HospizVery nice ski tour up the long Hintereisferner. Strong wind at the summit, though it abated enough to let me switch to crampons and axe to go over to the true summit with some grade II climbing. Great visibility all around! The weather window ended as I skied away, clouds dropping rapidly.
Silvia Mazzani - Oct 21, 2012 10:08 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 1998
North RidgeA beautiful ascent from Rif. Pio XI.
mpa - Jul 23, 2012 3:43 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2012
normal route from Oberettes hutTaking the normal route from Oberettes hut on a perfect day, very few people seen.
pirminoldeweghuis - Aug 13, 2010 6:47 am Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2010
From BrandenburgerhausI started together with a good friend and a local guide from the Brandenburgerhaus. We crossed the Gepatschferner (only took a more West route instead of going more to the east.), went down the Vernaglwand. After we descended the Vernaglwand we continued on the Langtaufererferner up to the Weisskugeljoch. From this point we crossed the Hintereisferner to the Hintereisjoch. From the Hintereisjoch the last part to the summit through deep but weak snow(it was about +5Celsius)steep up to the ice/snow ridge. On the ridge we had to be carefull because of the 'wechten' (don't know the english translation) they were tricky because of the soft snow. Last part some climbing to the top. A wonderful view over the Alps. We descended following the Hintereisferner in total to the Hochjochhospiz and back to Vent. It took us in total 11.5h, climbing/walking time.
selinunte01 - Jan 18, 2009 12:34 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2005
Weißkugel summit at lastI´ve been waiting for this since 1981 !
We took the route from Weißkugelhütte across Langtauferer Ferner and Hintereisjoch. There was a nasty ice slope below Hintereisjoch due to the late season. Great mountain.
Watched some heavy icefall down from Gepatsch Glacier onto Langtauferer Glacier on our way down. Later on there was some heavy rockfall out of Vernaglwände, boulders in the size of little houses came crashing down the slopes. Climate warming has started .....
hupfi - Apr 24, 2008 3:37 pm Date Climbed: Mar 30, 2008
via WeisskugelhutClimbed the Weisskugel via Weißkugelhut, Weisskugeljoch and Hintereisjoch. On the way down we crossed the Matscher, climbed to the Baerenbartjoch and skied down the Baerenbartferner. Nice weather, but strong winds on the summit (Foehn).
Trip Report (only in german): http://www.martinhupfauf.com/wordpress/?p=478
more Pics:
http://fotoalbum.martinhupfauf.com/2008/2008-03-29%20Schitour%20Weisskugel/index.html
reinhard2 - Dec 1, 2007 4:38 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 1981
Traverse NW-wall - normalFrom Weisskugel hut, NW wall up, normal way back to Weisskugel hut down. Impressing and recommendable tour. Date approximate.
Jurgen - Jun 22, 2006 2:47 pm
Date climbed: august 2004Normal route from the Schoene Aussicht Hut.Bad weather. Climbed in high speed, 5 hours total. With Bram, Maarten en Floor.
landroval - Apr 4, 2006 2:54 pm Date Climbed: Apr 2, 2006
360° skylineWe went from Teufelsegg on the ridge and then down the Hintereisferner glacier, towards Hintereisjoch and then up the final slope below the summit.
We climbed the final ridge and reached the summit on foot.
From here we enjoyed a wonderful 360° skyline, all over the Alps.
That was simply amazing.
Very sunny day and great snow... this is a lucky year!
Thanks to Alessandro, Mila and Pietro.
Images
albertofanga - Nov 6, 2005 12:46 pm
Route Climbed: from Oberettes hut Date Climbed: July 2003Very good ascent to the peak with clear sky but during the descent it became very foggy and we had to carefully follow our track.
tuan walter - Jul 29, 2005 7:57 pm
Route Climbed: North Ridge From Weisskugelhuette Date Climbed: July 28, 2005Mainly ice and rocks. Since 2003 there hasn't been a lot of snow on the north ridge in summer.
Claude Mauguier - May 15, 2005 3:37 am
Route Climbed: normal east ridge Date Climbed: aug 1991Alone, from Hochjoch Hospiz, I met half a dozen more mountaineers coming from the N routes, near the top. Fine weather while the sun rose, getting somewhat too cloudy for nice pictures as the morning got to its end.
dieguz2002 - Feb 16, 2004 1:56 am
Route Climbed: Normal Route from Ri. Pio XI Date Climbed: july 1992Great summit and nice environment.
The Shadow - Oct 22, 2002 4:14 am
Route Climbed: north ridge from the Weißkugel hut Date Climbed: September 23th 2000very nice day, only a few other climbers on the summit.
teamguzbach.org - Aug 22, 2002 4:19 pm
Route Climbed: Brandenburger Haus >> Normal Route Date Climbed: 18. August 2002Gosh this was one of my longest days in my life:
Brandenburger Haus >> Summit via Normal Route >> Weisskugel Hut >> Kauner Valley. Over 25km (only horizontal!) in high alpine terrain. I was really wasted in the end ... but a nice trip