OverviewWeissmies is a pretty 4000m-peak in the Walliser Alps,on the eastern side of Saas valley. Its most frequent used route(supported by lifts) leads on the Trift glacier, without real climb but with occasional problems of crevasses and seracs. SE-ridge offers an objective safe glacier-free approach with moderate difficulty on rock. First ascent was done by P.J.Zurbriggen and J. Chr. Heuser in 1856.
Getting ThereBy bus or car to Saas Almagell.(by car try find free parking S of the village).Nearest train station is Visp,26km.
Route DescriptionFrom Saas Almagell(1670m)through forest and meadows,passing by Almagelleralp(hut)2194m,on marked trail towards Almageller hut(2894m,~4 hours; accomodation)
From the hut follow the trail to Zwischenbergpass(3268m,SE-ridge is reached,~1H 30 min).Scramble horizontally great blocks northwards till the path leaves the ridge descending on the W side. Stay on the W side of the ridge(yellow-coloured,breakable cliffs on your left),and ascend on scree and steeper snow slope(steepness up to 40 degree).Leave the snow and join the ridge again at the place where the snow field reaches the ridge.
From here nice climb(UIAA I-II) on massive rock till point 3972m where the rock climbing ends. Continue on narrow but not very steep snow edge,interrupted by a rocky hump to the summit block(snow/easy rocks depending on weather conditions),~4H 30 min from hut.
Descend on the same way or on the Trift glacier route towards Hochsaas(lift).
Essential GearIce-axe and crampons are useful on the snow slope and also on the upper part of the route but definitely necessary in case of snowy conditions. Take complete glacier equipment if decided to descend on Trift glacier.
MapsMischabel 1:50.000,Bundesamt für Landestopographie, 1998.
Monte Rosa 1:50.000,Kompass #88.