East Creek to summit in 12 hours. Route is very aesthetic and sustained; it's place in the 50 classics is well deserved. Partner led the 5.10 finger crack variation; sustained and intimidating! New bolted rap route (see "Friends of Bugaboo Park" Facebook page) can be done with a single 60M cord, but watch your ends. Some of the raps are no kidding right at 30M!
Climbed from the East Creek. Lots of fun. Fixed rappels make the descent a breeze. Getting over the shrund was not a problem at tall. Stopped for a couple of hours above the crux pitch to let a group pass (see Vitaliy's post), then passed the other group higher up. High quality, incredible atmosphere. The first 10-11 pitches fly by but the next two or three pitches up the headwall are significantly more sustained.
Swong leads with Bryan. Our first time in Bugs. 18 hours Applebee to Applebee. Passed 2 parties, one of which spent full 2.5 days on the route. Amazing sunset was witnessed after we finished the raps down the back side.
Like a great Yosemite route only with glaciers Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2010
Left Applebee around 4, climbing by 7:30, summit at 6. Climbed with Brian, who was nice enough to let me lead the whole thing. My third trip to Canada and fourth time hiking up to the Bugs to try this thing. Great fun.