Welcome to SP!  -
West couloir of Le Tour Noir

West couloir of Le Tour Noir

West couloir of Le Tour Noir

Page Type: Route

Location: France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.94894°N / 7.03728°E

Object Title: West couloir of Le Tour Noir

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: AD

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: III

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: mallowman

Created/Edited: Jul 9, 2010 / Nov 2, 2013

Object ID: 636431

Hits: 1603 

Page Score: 0%  - 0 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote



This route is really good early in the season. good stable snow cover is a must.

Getting There

From the Argentier hut climb the right bank of the Amethyests glacier. cross to the gully coming down from the col superior Le Tour Noir. The route starts from here.

Route Description

Enter the gully and at the first opportunity break out to the right onto the rocky crest. Climb this until a delicate traverse to the steep snow slope becomes necessary. Round the corner of the rock-face and into a narrowing of the gully which leads to the ridge. We came to a four meter vertical patch of rotten ice which was awkward. After this it is a straight forward snowslope to the narrow ridge. After the summit we descended the north ridge with some abseils to the col and then easily down to the glacier. Allow about five hours up from the hut and two back down.

Essential Gear

A couple of ice screws and two axes are a must if the vertical ice patch is there. A few wires and quickdraws and a few slings should cover all bases.

External Links

Add External Links text here.


west couloir