The expansive crevasse field on the peak offers some fun and tricky navigational challenges, as there are a number of large crevasses along the way to the summit. Roped travel is highly advisable and echelon travel will be required amongst the wider parallel crevasses.
Approaches from Ptarmigan Lake and Falls Creek are described on the main page. Note: The climb takes only a day, but the approach will take 2-3+. Plan accordingly.
Approach the mountain from the south and head toward the west face. Ascend the mountain from the west crevasse field. Rope teams will have to travel in echelon to navigate amongst the wider parallel crevasses. Once near the summit, a small gully can be gained on the south side. Climb through the gully to gain the summit. The rock is very loose here, so use caution and be wary of rock fall.
Bring standard glacier and crevasse rescue gear (including pickets and ice screws for rescue). Wands can be used for route marking and/or point-to-point navigation as whiteouts do occur.
"I PUT A BLOWTORCH TO IT AND IT DID NOT TURN INTO A GEL."