OverviewThe west face of Gibraltar Rock is about 140 feet, and it contains some of the most popular and difficult climbs in the area. It features the steepest and highest of all the faces on Gibraltar Rock. However, due to the featureless and fragile sandstone nature of the rock, the lower half lacks in quality climbs. Looking up from the base, the left hand face_ wich is adjacent to the west face_ has the most number of cracks and features making it desirable for down climbing, or easy beginner top roping.
Self Reflection, 11 bThis very thin bolted climb is located on the upper portion of the west face. It starts from the obvious ledge roughly two thirds up the west face. There is a three bolt anchor and the climb goes up a steep and thin bolted face.
Mirror in the Bathroom 10+, C2 This is not a very popular climb and it involves some aid climbing.
Locate an overhanging face to the right of start of T-Crack. Using bolts and cracks aid up the over hang, then climb a thin face using more bolts and a bit more aid to get to the top.
Essential GearAssorted cams, nuts, quick draws and slings.
For top roping T-Crack you don't need a 60 meter rope. However, if you are planning to lead the climb from the bottom to the top in one pitch, a sixty meter rope will come in handy.
How to get to Gibraltar Rock
How to get to The West FaceThere are at least two different ways to approach the west face.
1- Via the Peanut Gallery: Walk and scramble on the north side of the main formation to reach a short steep gully. Down climb this gully to the Peanut Gallery which is roughly half way down the east face. There are two bolts on the ledge for rappelling to the base or belaying and top roping.
2- Via the base of the main formation: The obvious path that takes you down to the base of Gibraltar Rock can be followed around to the base of the west face.
CampingUnfortunately, there are no campgrounds close and convenient to Gibraltar Rock.
However, there is one very large and well developed campground at Cachuma Lake, and a few less developed ones along Paradise Road off Highway 154. There are also a few campgrounds along Highway 101 at El Capitan State Park and Refugio State Park.
Red TapeThere are no permits required to climb on Gibraltar Rock or any of the subsidiary formations. However, the forest service requires a permit for entering the "High Impact Areas." Gibraltar Road is not considered as High Impact Area, however, you may need one for camping or parking in the areas designated as such. For more information on such areas, please contact the Santa Barbara Ranger District, 805-967-3481.
Mountain Air Sports 14 State Street, Santa Barbara, CA. 93101 805-962-0049
Big 5 Sporting Goods 3935 State Street, Santa Barbara, CA. 93105 805-964-4749
Santa Barbara Ranger District 3505 Paradise Rd, Santa Barbara, CA. 93105 805-967-3481
Guide BookThere is an excellent guide book by Steve Tucker and Kevin Steele called Climbing in Santa Barbara, Ventura and San Luis Obispo.
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