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West Face of Gibraltar Rock
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West Face of Gibraltar Rock

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West Face of Gibraltar Rock

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.47702°N / 119.68012°W

Object Title: West Face of Gibraltar Rock

Route Type: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Toprope

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.11 (YDS)

Difficulty: From 5.1 to 5.11

Number of Pitches: 2

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Marcsoltan

Created/Edited: Feb 11, 2009 / Sep 2, 2010

Object ID: 488489

Hits: 3963 

Page Score: 91.07%  - 34 Votes 

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Overview

The west face of Gibraltar Rock is about 140 feet, and it contains some of the most popular and difficult climbs in the area. It features the steepest and highest of all the faces on Gibraltar Rock. However, due to the featureless and fragile sandstone nature of the rock, the lower half lacks in quality climbs. Looking up from the base, the left hand face_ wich is adjacent to the west face_ has the most number of cracks and features making it desirable for down climbing, or easy beginner top roping.
Mid section of the West Face
Mid Section of the west face

T-Crack, 10a

 
T-Crack, 10a...
The lower half of T-Crack
The most important feature of the west face is a prominent crack system in the middle of the face. This is T-Crack, a hand crack rated at 10a. The climb begins with a dynamic lay back and high step move leading to a good hand jam. Continue up the crack to a T-shape crack, hence the name. Move right for several feet, then go straight up to a good ledge. Move left and up to a wild mantle to another crack in a small ceiling. Overcome a layback move to your right to a finger crack and the top. There are at least two different variations to top out on T-Crack. The most popular of these is as follows: after getting to the “T” continue traversing right to an alcove and ascend an easy chimney to the top.





 
Doing Laps on T-Crack...
Van, no leg loops!






 
Doing Laps on T-Crack...
Yours Truly, early 90s

Self Reflection, 11 b

This very thin bolted climb is located on the upper portion of the west face. It starts from the obvious ledge roughly two thirds up the west face. There is a three bolt anchor and the climb goes up a steep and thin bolted face.

Mirror in the Bathroom 10+, C2 This is not a very popular climb and it involves some aid climbing.
Locate an overhanging face to the right of start of T-Crack. Using bolts and cracks aid up the over hang, then climb a thin face using more bolts and a bit more aid to get to the top.

Essential Gear

Assorted cams, nuts, quick draws and slings.

For top roping T-Crack you don't need a 60 meter rope. However, if you are planning to lead the climb from the bottom to the top in one pitch, a sixty meter rope will come in handy.
No one climbing...
Snowy day at the crag

How to get to Gibraltar Rock

 
Before I could free climb this crack-1970
Before I could free climb T-Crack, 1970
From Highway 101 take the Las Positas off ramp. For those coming from the south turn right; for those coming from the north turn left. In either case, drive toward the mountains to the north of Santa Barbara. Continue up Las Positas for .85 miles to State Street, where the name of Las Positas changes to San Roque. Continue driving straight toward the mountains until you come to HWY 192 (Foothill Road) in another .5 mile. Turn right at the intersection and continue up Foothill Road for 1.9 miles to its intersection with Mountain Drive. Turn left onto Mountain Drive and drive for .5 mile to its intersection with Gibraltar Road. Gibralatr Rock is about five miles from this point. You will recognize Gibraltar Rock located to the west of the road when you begin to see a large sandstone formation immediately to your right (east side of the road). This formation is “The Bolt Ladder.” Gibraltar Rock is a little further up the road and to your left. There are ample turnouts for parking between here and the next two turns in the road.

How to get to The West Face

There are at least two different ways to approach the west face.
1- Via the Peanut Gallery: Walk and scramble on the north side of the main formation to reach a short steep gully. Down climb this gully to the Peanut Gallery which is roughly half way down the east face. There are two bolts on the ledge for rappelling to the base or belaying and top roping.

2- Via the base of the main formation: The obvious path that takes you down to the base of Gibraltar Rock can be followed around to the base of the west face.

Camping

Unfortunately, there are no campgrounds close and convenient to Gibraltar Rock.
However, there is one very large and well developed campground at Cachuma Lake, and a few less developed ones along Paradise Road off Highway 154. There are also a few campgrounds along Highway 101 at El Capitan State Park and Refugio State Park.

Red Tape

There are no permits required to climb on Gibraltar Rock or any of the subsidiary formations. However, the forest service requires a permit for entering the "High Impact Areas." Gibraltar Road is not considered as High Impact Area, however, you may need one for camping or parking in the areas designated as such. For more information on such areas, please contact the Santa Barbara Ranger District, 805-967-3481.

Mountain Air Sports 14 State Street, Santa Barbara, CA. 93101 805-962-0049

Big 5 Sporting Goods 3935 State Street, Santa Barbara, CA. 93105 805-964-4749

Santa Barbara Ranger District 3505 Paradise Rd, Santa Barbara, CA. 93105 805-967-3481

Guide Book

There is an excellent guide book by Steve Tucker and Kevin Steele called Climbing in Santa Barbara, Ventura and San Luis Obispo.

Additions and Corrections

[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
Viewing: 1-4 of 4    
brutus of wydeParking Pass?

brutus of wyde

Hasn't voted

Please check if the Golden Eagle Pass is sufficient for parking along the road. I suspect that it is, and if so, mentioning that in your write-up would save some folks some hard-earned Social Security check.



Thanks!



Brutus



Old Climbers' Home
Posted Feb 16, 2009 1:16 pm
MarcsoltanRe: Parking Pass?

Marcsoltan

Hasn't voted

You know something? I have looked into that very question. I had a whole bunch of rangers scrambling for an answer. The answer was a definitive NO. I was hoping that Golden Eagle would take care of it, but unfortunately it doesn't. A few years ago I was climbing on the "Crag Full of Dynamite" and a ranger pulled up to see if I had a pass.

When I showed him the Golden Eagle he confirmed that it would not do. I apologized and he left me alone.
Posted Feb 16, 2009 1:48 pm
brutus of wydeRe: Parking Pass?

brutus of wyde

Hasn't voted

If you checked a few years ago, then the story may have changed by now. It has to do with the "permanentization" of the #@$% Fee Demo Program.



If you have checked recently, thanks.



I know Golden Eagle is now accepted in lieu of day parking pass at: Tahquitz Rock; Parking area for the Mace in Sedona; Roadside parking in the San Bernardino mountains; Trailhead parking for Liberty Bell, Early Winters Spires, etc., etc.



Thanks for the response!



Brutus
Posted Feb 18, 2009 1:30 am
MarcsoltanRe: Parking Pass?

Marcsoltan

Hasn't voted

No, I haven't checked recently. If what you are saying holds true for my area then I have been robbed in the tune of $30 just recently. I will call the forest service to see what they say. If the Golden Eagle card is good, I will make the the necessary changes

to my page.

Thanks for bringing this matter to my attention.

Marc
Posted Feb 18, 2009 1:36 am

Viewing: 1-4 of 4    

Images

No one climbing...Before I could free climb this crack-1970T-Crack, 10a...Doing Laps on T-Crack...Mid section of the West FaceDoing Laps on T-Crack...No need to vote on this photo please