Approach the west face (duh) via any trailhead. The first pitch begins via the left-slanting grooves on the west face, approximately 30-40 feet to the right of the Rappel Chimney.
Pitch 1: Groove and cracks that angle to the left. A bit awkward and difficult to protect in places. The less gifted will inelegantly "beach the whale" over a large block onto a spacious ledge, marked by a small tree.
Pitch 2: Continue up and left in grooves and cracks. At one point you are in a chimney (not visible from the base) that is very easy to climb & protect...rather like climbing a ladder. Climb up to the left, with airy steps around to the large block which also serves as the northwest shoulder rap station. The exhilerating exposure is accentuated by the rush one gets from the block rocking on a slight fulcrum. Clip in to the new rap bolts (placed 2001).
Pitch 3: Go to the left of the northwest shoulder rap station. The pitch is almost exclusively composed of large tumbled blocks. Protect what you need to, but the pitch is essentially a scramble to the summit.
via the northwest shoulder rap stations. A 40-foot rap from the north side of the summit gains the shoulder and the large block used as a belay at the top of the second pitch. An exhilarating double-rope rap down the "Rappel Chimney" will get you down far enough so that the rest may be easily downclimbed to the base. The rap bolts at the top of the Rappel Chimney were replaced in 2001. Bring extra new webbing (especially in early season) to rig the rap bolts.
Standard rack of nuts and chocks. Cams are especially helpful for the parallel-sided cracks; bring a few.
A standard 50-meter rope is sufficient. However, a second rope is needed for the double-rope rap down from the northwest shoulder rap station (the Rappel Chimney), but weight can be minimized by using a smaller diameter rope to join with the climbing rope for the rap only.
Bring extra new webbing (especially in early season) to rig the rap bolts. A couple of new rap rings are a nice touch, but not neccessary.
In early season, sturdy boots, knee-high gaitors and an ice axe are very helpful as deep snow is frequently present until at least late June.
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