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West Face

West Face

West Face

Page Type: Route

Location: Troms, Norway, Europe

Lat/Lon: 69.48330°N / 19.30000°E

Object Title: West Face

Route Type: Snow/Ice

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Snow/Ice to 60 degrees

Route Quality: 
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Page By: darinchadwick

Created/Edited: Apr 8, 2004 / Apr 8, 2004

Object ID: 160674

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Follow directions from the main page. The climbing starts as soon as you leave the car.

Route Description

Follow the dirt road or clearing until it's end. From here, look for a gap in the lower cliffs that is filled with birch trees. Aim for this gap to avoid a short ice climb or dirty rock climb. Once through the gap, trend hard left to circumvent a second bank of short cliffs. A surprisingly steep but short pitch gets the climber past this second band of cliffs and above all vegetation.

This is a critical point. You are now between the cleft, which is a steep avalanche funnel, and a huge black cliff. Climb between these two features, keeping closer to the cleft as needed. Continue climbing until well above the black cliff. From here your choices are dictated by the season and snow conditions. Work your way through steeper and steeper snow, trending left to avoid cornices along the summit ridge. After skirting under steeper terrain, gun for the summit ridge. The summit ridge is broad and easier, and simple hiking gets the climber to the summit. The climb averages between 45 and 55 degrees, with short sections up to 60 degrees.

Essential Gear

Minimum: Ice Axe and crampons.
Maximum: If the conditions are fully icy, you'll need: rope, snow or ice protection, and possibly a second ice tool.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


About 2/3 of the way up the...Upper section of the west...Climbing under cliffs below...The west face of Durmålstind...