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West Point Crack (5.7)
Route

West Point Crack (5.7)

 
West Point Crack (5.7)

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 38.87780°N / 104.88°W

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.7

Number of Pitches: 2

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Ed F

Created/Edited: Aug 15, 2005 / Feb 28, 2008

Object ID: 166300

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Approach

This is one of the classics of the Garden of the Gods. Named after my alma mater, West Point, this route was put up by US Army climbers in the 1940s from nearby Fort Carson. The first free ascent was done by Harvey Carter in the 50s.

This route is on the West Face of South Gateway Rock. On the face, locate the large, leaning tower of rock. West Point Crack follows the crack system on the south side of it. The route begins on the left side of a large pothole (cave).

Route Description

3 pitches.

P1: Climb a steep face past three fixed pitons. Ends on a ledge with a double anchor.

P2: Go past two pins to a chimney. Stem the chimney to a piton belay on top of a pillar.

P3: Step right off the pillar to the face and climb past 2 pins to the top.

Descend by rapping off the top of the pillar.

Essential Gear

Medium to large cams, slings, and quickdraws. Rap with two 60m ropes. 50m ropes are too short, and will leave you off the deck.

Images

West Point Crack



"One final paragraph of advice: Do not burn yourselves out. Be as I am — a reluctant enthusiast ... a part-time crusader, a half-hearted fanatic. Save the other half of yourselves and your lives for pleasure and adventure. It is not enough to fight for the land; it is even more important to enjoy it. While you can. While it's still here. So get out there and hunt and fish and mess around with your friends, ramble out yonder and explore the forests, encounter the grizz, climb the mountains, bag the peaks, run the rivers, breathe deep of that yet sweet and lucid air, sit quietly for a while and contemplate the precious stillness, that lovely, mysterious and awesome space. Enjoy yourselves, keep your brain in your head and your head firmly attached to the body, the body active and alive, and I promise you this much; I promise you this one sweet victory over our enemies, over those desk-bound people with their hearts in a safe deposit box and their eyes hypnotised by desk calculators. I promise you this; you will outlive the bastards."   --Edward Abbey   

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