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West ridge from Dovska vratca

West ridge from Dovska vratca


Page Type: Route

Location: Julian Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.39270°N / 13.88580°E

Object Title: West ridge from Dovska vratca

Route Type: Scramble on an easy feratta

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: Walk up and secured climbing

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: Bor

Created/Edited: Feb 15, 2005 / Feb 15, 2005

Object ID: 163984

Hits: 2397 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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The starting point is the hut Dom Valentina Stanica (2332m) that is approachable from many valleys. For more information check the pages of Triglav group and Triglav.

Dovska vratca (2254m) you can reach also directly from the Krma valley over the nice marked route.

Route Description

Rjavina from the SW side. On the left are Dovska vratca and the west ridge.

When you reach the Dovska vratca from any possibility you follow the signposts for Rjavina in the east direction. First you will cross the small rocky ridge. Then you have to climb the short wall that is well secured by iron ropes. Then you will croos the long ridge and you will reach many small summits. Somewhere you have to climb over the some rocks. Be carefu on secured places.

Then you will come on the first summit of Rjavina where many climbers end the tour. But the main summit is at the end of the ridge and it is the highest one. If you want to reach it you must descend some meters. You have to climb the steep secured wall. Then you will se the window in Rjavina. Soon you come on the lowest point between the first and the main summit. You will reach the main summit in ten minutes over the easy slope.

The view is better on the first summit! :-)

You descend by the same route or you can take the harder ferrata over the north face that comes up near the window in Rjavina.

Essential Gear

Good hiking shoes and rope for not good climbers.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.