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West Ridge from Rifugio Rossi

 
West Ridge from Rifugio Rossi

Page Type: Route

Location: Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 44.04022°N / 10.34912°E

Object Title: West Ridge from Rifugio Rossi

Route Type: Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: Hike and Scramble

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Gangolf Haub

Created/Edited: Jul 19, 2009 / Jul 19, 2009

Object ID: 531058

Hits: 1869 

Page Score: 74.92%  - 5 Votes 

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Overview

 
Looking down the west ridge
Looking down the west ridge towards Pania della Croce

Compared to the 6 routes, which ascend neighbouring Pania della Croce, the Pania Secca route is more difficult and exposed. Since it is rarely used, the path is not very easily visible and only a few stone cairns lead the way. It crosses a small karst plateau, in which orientation is rather difficult with all the crevices and gullies running across. The ascent itself is exposed as it dances above the abyss of the south face with the north face also being not exactly flat.

The route is short - the lower part is a steep hike through the dense beech forest beneath the Panie north faces. Above the timberline it turns into the steep scramble described above but that remainder of the route takes only about an hour to complete.

The route can also be used as a ski tour in winter but is dangerous due to the gullies and crevices in the karst plateau.

Getting There

Pania Secca
Pania Secca north face from the trailhead. The route follows the right skyline

See the main page for the itinerary to the Piglonico trailhead (north-eastern trailhead).

Route Description

Pania Secca
Pania Secca seen from the sloped plateau in its north-west

  • General:
      - Start altitude: 1100m
      - Summit altitude: 1708m
      - Prevailing exposure: North, later south and north
      - Type: Steep exposed hike
      - Protection: None
  • Effort: 600m
  • Power: 2 - Steep
  • Psyche: 3 - A lot of exposure on the west ridge
  • Difficulty: 2 - Steep hike
  • Orientation: 2 - Crossing the karst plateau there is potential to go wrong

    From the Chapel at Piglionico follow the road until it ends. Here a path takes you across a rocky rib into the beech forest underneath Pania Secca. Since you are underneath the north face the forest is rather dark and contains snowfields until late in the year. The path first traverses several hundred metres to the east before steeply climbing up a wide valley. Every now and then it touches upon a limestone rib (views) but quickly returns into the deep forest. After about an hour you head above the timberline and step on the sloped karst plateau between the two Panie.
     
    Karst
     
     
    Kast slopes
     
     
    Uomo Morto
     

    A few hundred metres onto the plateau the normal route to Pania Secca turns off to the left, heading through a kind of heath. It passes the nose of Uomo Morto (there is a possibility to climb it along the bridge of the nose - very steep grass scramble) and heads for a saddle between the Uomo and Pania Secca. Soon the heath vanishes, instead the path heads into a rocky karst-like terrain. With quite some ups and downs through and across several gullies and crevices the path winds in the direction of the saddle. There is potential of losing it since orientation is difficult an the ston cairns which lead the way are rare. Also in case of snow, the section can become very dangerous.
     
    Saddle view
     
     
    Pania Secca
     
     
    Karst slopes
     

    Once in the saddle, the route gets easier though now it turns real steep. It leads out into the north face of the mountain before leading back to the west ridge in several switchbacks, thus avoiding a big step on the ridge. Finally orientation stops being a problem as the ridge itself leads the way. The path avoids obstacles several times by passing them to the north and general stays away about 2m from the south face. Near the summit it again turns left, passing the summit to the north and finally reaching it from north-eastern direction.
    Pania Secca
    Last steps to the summit

    Essential Gear

    Hiking gear is sufficient.

    Images

    Looking down the west ridgePania SeccaPania SeccaKarstSaddle viewKast slopesPania Secca
    Pania SeccaUomo MortoKarst slopesPania Secca