I used this beta to climb this peak a couple weeks ago and wanted to add some feedback.
1. If you are only comfortable on 3rd class terrain PLEASE do not climb on the slab right below the summit. First, it's not even on the route, I literally walked right to the summit and had to look for the slab on my way down. Why would you go out of your way to climb on a slab 6 miles away from the road?
2. This beta led me on a serious adventure. I'm comfortable unroped on low 5th class, and this is a sketchy climb. I traversed over when the ridge got steep, and definitely encountered some insecure 4th and maybe 5th class moves on very loose rock. Not fun. I thought maybe I traversed too high, so I went lower on the way back, that was even less fun, loose scree on top of slabs, a recipe to slide right off the mountain.
3. Make sure you have a landmark for which gulley you came up. It's not totally obvious which one to descend on the way down, and there's only one that's even close to safe.
Long story short, don't climb on the slab below the summit, and route finding is definitely the crux of the climb. I also wouldn't recommend this unless you're a total adrenaline junky who likes loose 4th class climbing.
TimB - Jul 13, 2012 10:33 am - Voted 10/10
Good jobNice informational page. Looking forward to trying the West Ridge route myself.
Thanks!!
Plant Mom - Oct 18, 2020 7:04 pm - Hasn't voted
Slab CruxI used this beta to climb this peak a couple weeks ago and wanted to add some feedback.
1. If you are only comfortable on 3rd class terrain PLEASE do not climb on the slab right below the summit. First, it's not even on the route, I literally walked right to the summit and had to look for the slab on my way down. Why would you go out of your way to climb on a slab 6 miles away from the road?
2. This beta led me on a serious adventure. I'm comfortable unroped on low 5th class, and this is a sketchy climb. I traversed over when the ridge got steep, and definitely encountered some insecure 4th and maybe 5th class moves on very loose rock. Not fun. I thought maybe I traversed too high, so I went lower on the way back, that was even less fun, loose scree on top of slabs, a recipe to slide right off the mountain.
3. Make sure you have a landmark for which gulley you came up. It's not totally obvious which one to descend on the way down, and there's only one that's even close to safe.
Long story short, don't climb on the slab below the summit, and route finding is definitely the crux of the climb. I also wouldn't recommend this unless you're a total adrenaline junky who likes loose 4th class climbing.