Wetterhorn Peak (Colorado) Climber's Log
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|ColoradoScott||Route Climbed: Southeast Ridge Date Climbed: August 23, 2003|
|After setting up camp about a mile west of the Matterhorn Creek Road and TH on Aug. 21st, I had hoped to climb this the on the 22nd. When I woke at 6:00 a.m. the monsoon clouds had me roll over in my sleeping bag and I decided to take it easy and drive over Engineer Pass into Ouray for lunch instead. I returned over Cinnamon Pass and back through Lake City during the storm. The rain and lightning finally ended and broke up before sundown. |
The next morning, I woke and hit the trailhead by 7:00 a.m. and quickly proceeded up the trail. Being a Saturday, I expected more climbers, but only saw five others on Wetterhorn that day. The climber's trail that crosses the creek above timberline and heads west along the left side of the basin was marked with a cairn and the junction seemed logical to me, although I think many people stay on the main trail much higher before turning toward Wetterhorn. Although this trail does fade into a number of scree slopes and gullies below the SE ridge, it is helpful to climb on it if you can locate it.
It grew chilly on the ridge, so I added a layer on top, but was still in shorts on the legs. The route climbs up a semi-loose slope of brightly colored rock and the gets into the better defined ridge above. The route was more apparent than I thought it would be and finding the small keyhole above the Shark's Fin was marked with a cairn. The steep scramble on solid ledges above to the summit is a spectacular finish on a great mountain. Just be careful of sending rock missles onto anyone below. I topped out at 10:30 and fortunately had the summit to myself for twenty minutes when another climber, from Boulder, arrived. I spent 45 minutes on top and the two of us descended together, making excellent time and back to the TH by 1:15 p.m. The storm clouds let loose a half hour later. The cold beer in the cooler was a nice finish.
|Posted Feb 7, 2005 12:49 pm|
|charles97||Route Climbed: Matterhorn Creek Date Climbed: September 9, 2004|
|Double bagging of Wetterhorn and Uncompahgre. #24 and #25. Gorgeous day, no problems with the climb except there was no one else on top to take a picture of me.|
|Posted Jan 28, 2005 2:07 pm|
|Larry V||Route Climbed: southeast ridge, Matterhorn Creak Trailhead Date Climbed: July 1996|
|Climbed late in day after conquering Uncompahgre in the morning. A beautiful mountain, and challenging climb.|
|Posted Jan 13, 2005 11:33 pm|
|climber46||Route Climbed: SE Ridge(standard route) Date Climbed: Sept 18, 2004|
|Despite marginal weather, I made the summit with a friend from Boulder, CO. I did not think this mountain was as hard as it is built up to be. Yes, you want to avoid falling, but there are so many steps and handholds that make it easy. Also, thanks to work by the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative in 2004, the Trail to Wetterhorn Peak is now clearly marked and easy to follow. There are even signs marking where the Wetterhorn trail junctions away from the main trail. Other former climber paths have been marked "Closed for Revegetation". Having one clearly marked trail will help preserve the tundra environment and also make it quicker and easier to gain the SE ridge of Wetterhorn. |
All in all, a very nice hike!
|Posted Sep 21, 2004 12:53 pm|
|sbkelley||Route Climbed: Southeast Ridge Date Climbed: July 2004|
|One of the most beautiful Fourteeners out there. Tanya and I especially liked the last summit pitch - pure fun! We also came across a guy smoking pot on the summit...I was wondering why he was talking to the marmot up there and once I smelled the smoke, it all made sense...I guess he made it down okay, though.|
|Posted Sep 9, 2004 12:55 am|
|Saintgrizzly||Route Climbed: Good question... Date Climbed: Late '70's (Whew!!)|
|High on the list of most people's favorite Colorado mountains, including me. I've only done the peak once, in the late '70's, and it may have been my first San Juan 14-er. Did the mountain with Aaron, and the unusual thing about this trip came about because at that time some access roads were still open that are now gone. We'd just purchased CJ's, and were big on trying out new roads--well, we took a winding back ridge road, eventually bringing us out on to a ridge overlooking the Wetterhorn south/southeast basin. (And what a stupendous view that particular perspective is!) From there we did the mountain, which was considerably shorter than the standard routes of today. The thing of interest, and we didn't realize this until some time later, is that the area had just been declared a wilderness area, we had taken a wrong turn onto an access road in such a manner so as to miss a closed gate (the "normal" entry point) maybe a hundred yards further on--in other words, we may actually have been driving in the wilderness, and were probably the last ones ever to use that particular road. We'd never have done such a thing knowingly, and even back then the fine would have been substantial--ignorance is bliss, and we lucked out. And the mountain was terrific!|
Did Matterhorn two years ago (2002) with Aaron and Ellen. Nice views of Wetterhorn and Uncompahgre.
|Posted Aug 10, 2004 9:30 pm|
|firstname.lastname@example.org||Route Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: August 9th, 2004|
|A beautiful climb. Rope was nice for the final pitch. Not highly technical at all, but a fall would be serious.|
|Posted Aug 9, 2004 9:23 pm|
|Gareth||Route Climbed: Southeast Ridge Date Climbed: July 24, 2004|
|This one wound up being a battle for me! I made it to the top after climbing up the frost covered crux. Exciting climb, all by myself--had the whole upper mountain to myself.|
I am signing this summit log in a internet cafe in Ouray :)
|Posted Jul 24, 2004 11:18 pm|
|jrf||Route Climbed: South Ridge (sort of) Date Climbed: July 3, 2004|
|Amazing climb. We actually went pretty far over towards Matterhorn Peak and then headed up grassy slopes and snow back over to the south ridge. This route is sort of in the Roach book but I think we went farther east than he suggests. There is a trail in between the two creeks that I think we were meant to find instead. |
Last section got my attention but not nearly as bad as I expected. The ledges were very solid.
|Posted Jul 15, 2004 10:28 am|
|ctruscot||Route Climbed: Matterhorn trail head Date Climbed: September 2003|
|Nice climb end of September - colors were fanatastic.|
|Posted Jul 11, 2004 8:39 pm|
|mpbro||Route Climbed: Matterhorn (SE Slopes), Wetterhorn (SE Ridge) Date Climbed: 9 July 2004|
|Well, unlike "Ratballs", we were wearing clothes, so call us boring! We did the standard routes on Wetterhorn and Matterhorn. Matterhorn was easy and enjoyable. Wetterhorn proved a dandy little scramble on excellent rock! We hiked in the previous night from West Fork Cimarron trailhead and camped east of the 12500' pass east of Matterhorn Peak. Planned to take a 3-day trip to do Uncompahgre, but it seemed better to look at than to climb, so we just did Matterhorn and Wetterhorn and hiked out. Long day, but good fun.|
|Posted Jul 10, 2004 11:37 pm|
|Ratballs||Route Climbed: South ridge from Matterhorn Creek trailhead Date Climbed: 31 August, 2003|
|Highest Naked Man in America: |
I headed down Crestone-wards in the evening, but the weather there looked so appalling that I just kept on going, bearing generally towards the southwest. Midnight found me deep in the San Juans, pulling up to the Matterhorn Creek trailhead, where I truck-camped for the night. I backpacked in at 8AM, set up my tent just below the Matterhorn slopes, and then hiked around the shoulder across the open plains of tundra to Uncompahgre, which I climbed up a frustrating scree-filled couloir on the west side.
It felt so damned good to be back up high that I practically skied back down Uncompahgre and ran over to Wetterhorn--beating by twenty minutes, I might add, the summit-to-summit time of Matt Mahoney, the ultra-runner (I know, because he recorded his time in the summit register). It was 4PM, and the latest I'd ever summited. On Wetterhorn, the weather was so clear that I took all my clothes off and wandered naked around the summit for a half-hour or so.
I'm fairly certain that for 30 minutes, then, I was the highest naked man in Colorado, if not the country. Of course, by the time I got back to my tent (fully and appropriately attired), it was still only about 5:30PM, so I backpacked the whole damned thing down again and drove the 380 miles home--I never did camp.
|Posted Jun 22, 2004 3:42 pm|
|mountainmota||Route Climbed: Southwest Ridge Date Climbed: July 2003|
|Posted Jun 15, 2004 7:31 pm|
|bc44caesar||Route Climbed: SE Ridge Date Climbed: 15 May 2004|
|Climbed solo from Matterhorn Creek in conjunction with Uncompahgre. Ascended the ridge from a snow couloir on the west side. The final pitch was covered in snow and ice - very treacherous!!|
|Posted May 16, 2004 2:08 pm|
|Ryan Kowalski||Route Climbed: From Matterhorn Peak Date Climbed: June 29, 2003|
|What a joy! Over from Matterhorn Peak. Fully enjoyed the smallish summit. Another beautiful June day in CO. The scrambling was great and solid for the San Juans. One of my favorite CO peaks. Such a distinctive mountain.|
|Posted Apr 19, 2004 5:04 pm|
|JonBradford||Route Climbed: South Ridge-Standard Date Climbed: September 1, 2000|
|I love Wetterhorn. My favorite fourteener by far. I climbed it with my brother. We took turns dog sitting the giant Jax near the Ships prow as we did the third class portion. Neat Neat Mountain. I almost wish it wasn't a fourteener.|
|Posted Nov 9, 2003 9:53 pm|
|Steven Cross||Route Climbed: SE Ridge Date Climbed: september, 22, 2003|
|This was my 4th 14er. The top 200 feet was not as bad as I thought it would be. It very exposed, but the solid rock made it quite easy. Somebody told me that it is very intence and told me to bring a rope. Didn't bring a rope and there is no reason for one. The part of the climb that scared me was below where the rock is loose and slippery. |
Overall it was a fun climb.
Not a cloud in the sky!
|Posted Sep 29, 2003 3:10 pm|
|big_g||Route Climbed: SE Ridge std route |
Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2003
|Awesome route. I was tempted to leave my first ascent as a snow climb of the face in the spring but the pictures of the ledges just looked too cool. This was my favorite 14er climb until the next day when I did Sneffels.|
Little tiring after doing Matterhorn first though. Dropping that 800 feet and picking my way through the boulderfield took quite a bit of time.
Guess when the Matterhorn summit log was put out there.... 21 Aug 2001!
|Posted Sep 27, 2003 9:53 pm|
|RyanS||Route Climbed: Standard route Date Climbed: August 15, 2003|
|A strange weather day made for a quick climb: 2 1/2 hrs. from TH to summit! What a blast! A trip report is available here.|
|Posted Aug 22, 2003 3:50 pm|
|Matt Mahoney||Route Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: July 9, 2003|
|Started from Capitol City and climbed Uncompahgre first. Nice weather even at 2 PM. The last bit of exposed class 3 was scary but not hard.|
|Posted Jul 27, 2003 10:16 pm|