Wherever I May Roam Additions and Corrections
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|On May 2nd, I climbed Wherever I may roam and did a bolt count. 7 or 8,9,10,10,6 respectively for the pitches. Note: These don't include double-bolted belay stations. If you use quickdraws for anchors, 12 is the absolute minimum! We took ten quickdraws and made anchors with slings and carabiners, we had just enough.|
|Posted May 5, 2004 12:53 pm|
I think a single 60m if I recall brings you safely down back to the west side base (total of 4 rap's incl. one from the very top)?
|Posted May 5, 2004 1:44 pm|
|Also, a 60m rope is highly recommended. Otherwise, have the second climber bring up a second 50m for use when rapelling. We brought two 50m ropes and it was inconvenient.|
|Posted May 5, 2004 1:00 pm|
|"At some point you will see a doubly bolted anchor directly above - this is NOT your anchor (presumably that's where the other bolt line mentioned above terminates)." |
As of 9/6/04, the day I climbed this route, the above mentioned double bolted anchor is no longer double bolted, but a single bolt with a chain on it. The other bolts have been chopped/removed for whatever reason, there are only two or three bolt holes left in the area besides the single bolt with the chain. If you get suckered into climbing up to this single bolt (like I was), your only option is to downclimb two bolts of 5.8-5.9 moves to get back on route. Talk about excitement...
|Posted Sep 28, 2004 1:43 pm|
|I just wanted to give a bit more info about the walk-off descent. Yes, it is possible to walk off of the Smith Rock Group without doing any rappels, and in fact is probably faster and easier than rapping down, especially if there are multiple parties. From the top of "Wherever I May Roam", follow a scramble trail up (south) towards the summit of the formation. Just over the top, there is a gully on the right with a cairn at the top. This looks like it would work but I haven't tried it. If you continue futher there is a nice gentle trail that descends back to the base of the climbs.|
|Posted Oct 10, 2005 12:38 pm|
|cluck||An update from 5/07|
|Lots of traffic has made this route pretty solid (vs consistency of expected Smith Tuft) and most of the loose crap has likely been pulled/kicked off. A helmet is a good idea still, but I wouldn't worry too much about portable holds. |
Lots of bolts now on the leftward traversing face on P3. Think the beta is stay to the far left most line of bolts to follow the route correctly and to stay on 5.9 or lower terrain.
We had no traffic on the route and did it from start to finish of final rap in just about 2 hours traveling in a pretty efficient manner. FYI just in case you wonder if you can sneak it in before dark late some afternoon.
|Posted May 7, 2007 3:37 pm|