White Princess Climber's Log

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Xax - Sep 3, 2020 2:49 pm Date Climbed: Apr 13, 2019

Sunshine and Snow-Crimes  Sucess!

Successful Summit via West Ridge with UAF friends in 2019

NateBannish

NateBannish - Aug 23, 2019 8:39 am Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2019

White Princess   Sucess!

Hiked up the Castner with Cody and Shane, then took a right up M'Ladies branch. We had plenty of time the first day, so we ascended the (very easy) east ridge of Triangle peak.

4:30AM start the next day for an attempt on the White Princess Southwest ridge. Things went decently for a while until we came to a sickening, hardly protectable knife edge of the worst choss any of us had ever seen. No one was comfortable with it, and it was getting too late, so we turned back.

Shane had to be at work on Monday, so that left Cody and I. Luckily I had an extra dinner, and this sealed the pact for attempt #2.

This time, we started at 2am and gained the northwest ridge, roping up for the upcoming crevasse field. We followed this ridge to the summit block, dodging crevasses along the way.

After a bit of belayed climbing, we were on the summit at 7AM! Despite the sun, we didn't linger for long,as the snow was getting punchy.

We arrived back at the tent without incident, and after a brief nap, set off for the car.

Laron

Laron - Jul 18, 2012 8:39 am

SW Ridge

Climbed up the SW Ridge with Odin Miller. Fun climb and great views.

Flyingclimber

Flyingclimber - Aug 19, 2009 7:18 pm

Summer '91  Sucess!

Spent a month in the area and climbed White Princess, Black Cap,Triangle Peak and M'Ladies. Had great weather except for one week of snow and low visiblity. Nothing technical on White Princess. On the way up the Castner Glacier we spent the night at the cabin. (not a rumor)

xmtbiker - Mar 8, 2009 10:29 pm

Cold late winter ascent  Sucess!

We climbed as a rather large group since we were a class for the AAC. I remember getting up so early for the ascent that it still felt like we were asleep until I reached the summit and got an amazing view.

colint

colint - Mar 6, 2007 5:28 am Date Climbed: May 3, 2007

Southwest ridge  Sucess!

Great climb. We had a beautiful winter day, more like mid-spring except for the -30F. After passing the gendarme at 8,000 feet, the summit ridge is excellent. We had one minor crevasse fall at about 9500 feet, but otherwise things went perfectly.

AlexeyD

AlexeyD - Jul 10, 2002 7:27 pm

Route Climbed: south (i guess) ridge Date Climbed: june 5-10, 1999

reached a point of about 8000 feet but had to go back because we decided to "go light" and didn't bring rope, and at 8000 feet you have to do a short rappel or downclimb. Want to come back some day and do it...possibly by another route, maybe the same one.

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