Tried it after an unusually hot summer and most of the approach was melted out. Because of this it took us HOURS to get up there and we were on the route too late. It was bare ice. Scary rockfall finally drove us back down. We'll be back, it's a aesthetic line on a beautiful mountain.
Started the couloir at 5:40 AM, snow not quite set up. The gully down the middle where snow had slide was the most solid. We roped up for the last 4 pitches. No sign of any rock anchor, most likely buried. On top just before noon. Great mountain!!!
"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."