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Whorl Mountain Climber's Log

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wmollandSE face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2015


Got a bit off route by going up a cute too far west. After reaching the crest we realized our error and descended before traversing into the correct chute and going up the standard route. The chockstone was fun to burrow through and the climb was not anything overly scary or difficult. Overall, a fine peak indeed!
Posted Sep 22, 2015 10:50 am

CWesselsNE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2015


Chockstone was passable, but I took the Chute #2 apex variation to ridge traverse on the way up. I know the route description says topping out on Chute #2 is class 3, but it seemed to me that the last move or two before the chute-top was class 4 (a narrow crack up an otherwise smooth slab, with one flake for a handhold).

I think Chute #2 in general is more interesting (but hardly more difficult) than #1, except near the top. There's an easy place to traverse from #1 to #2 about halfway up--which is a nice alternative, since the first chute is basically just class 2.
Posted Jul 30, 2015 2:31 am

RomainSoutheast face to West face variation (cl. 4)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2015


I set off to climb Whorl Mountain from Horse Creek Pass at 10:42 am, after having climbed Matterhorn. I had no trouble locating the correct chutes and passages across the various chutes, but after I located the chockstone chute I faced lots of route finding issues: the chockstone passage was clogged with snow, so I had to find an alternative. My alternative route was to go back to chute #2 and climb it to its apex (class 4). I then did a downward traverse of the West face of Whorl on some sandy ledges, ultimately finding a chute that led upwards to a snow-filled gap just North of the summit. From slightly below the gap, one can find exposed and insecure right-leaning class 3 ledges to the summit. I reached the summit at 13:55 pm. I found no summit register, only a Ziploc bag under a rock containing some papers and register entries. I left the summit around 14:10 pm and was back in camp at 16:16 pm (camp to summit, it was a 5:34 hour ascent).

Reading Secor's book it is apparent I did not gain the summit ridge immediately upon cresting chute #2, as would have been the case had I gone under the chockstone in chute #3. This caused me to have to traverse the West face, as described above. Overall this was a very interesting route that causes the mountaineer to work hard and do some creative problem solving.
Posted Jun 29, 2015 6:14 pm

mengboSE face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2014


Climbed with Jeff. No issues of chutes finding. It is a beautiful peak, but be cautious of loose rocks under chockstone.
Posted Aug 25, 2014 2:25 pm

cabSE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2014


We didn't have too much trouble with the routefinding after reviewing the pictures on the SP page here. The chockstone was pretty cool with the all of the twisting and turning you have to do to make your way through the back of it. We also climbed Matterhorn afterwards which made for a long day.
Posted Aug 18, 2014 1:21 pm

WayneFrySE Face
Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2013


A good challenging route find. Attempted to climb this peak with a team of four but encountered rockfall while climbing behind the chockstone. One of our climbers was injured and we stopped the ascent at that point.
Posted Sep 10, 2013 12:15 am

craig512Great climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 21, 2012


Barely made this one. Route finding was a little tricky, but the climb itself was fairly easy for a mountaineers peak. After summiting it started to snow, our hopes to bag Matterhorn were dashed and we headed back to base camp where it snowed about 1.5 feet overnight. Made the hike out interesting, but we had a blast!
Posted Aug 2, 2013 12:27 am

seanoStandard route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2012


After Matterhorn, for day 1 of the Sierra Challenge. Surprisingly fun, though I missed the chockstone tunnel. Trip report.
Posted Aug 11, 2012 9:30 pm

dshoshoneSE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2012


Fun cl. 3 climb
Posted Jul 31, 2012 5:25 pm

Shane RathbunLong approach
Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2010

Shane Rathbun

Vitaliy and I attempted to day-hike this but after climbing Snake Dike the day before. We accidentally slept in to 7am in the back of my luxuriously Suburban and got a late start. We ended up calling the climb off at the col just pass Matterhorn, we ended up day hiking several unnamed peaks in the area and driving back to SF that night.
Posted Dec 6, 2010 3:43 pm

ckerthSE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2010


Fun climb with an interesting route. Left from Twin Lakes and camped overnight by a tarn at the base of the mountain.
Posted Sep 2, 2010 8:48 pm

mdoughertySE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2010


Up from camp at Horse Creek Pass. Really fun climb and great views.
Posted Aug 27, 2010 3:46 am

mrchad9Spectacular Mountain  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2008


Really enjoyed the route finding and scenery on this one. Camped at the lake south of Horse Creek Pass and climbed this in the morning after visiting Matterhorn the day before.
Posted Jun 13, 2010 8:07 pm

gjonbelaySE Face July 18 1999  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 1999


Climbed Whorl and Mattehorn on the same weekend with a group of PCSers.

Trip Report

Posted Mar 24, 2009 4:32 pm

BCLRoute Climbed: SE Face Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2008  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2008


Solo day hike out of Twin Lakes. Fun climb.
Posted Sep 14, 2008 12:26 pm

steve_hiebertSE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2008


We dayhiked it from Twin Lakes crossing Horse Creek Pass. The routefinding was a bit tricky. I think we crossed from Chute #1 to Chute #2 too high but we were (surprisingly) following another party. From Chute #2 to Chute #3 through the chockstone, and then to the summit, the climb was fascinating.
Posted Aug 29, 2008 7:02 pm

derbillySierra Challenge 2007  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2007


Clmbed SE face in a sleep-deprived state and still managed to pick up the formidable Horse Creek Peak as a bonus!
Posted Aug 21, 2007 6:12 pm

bechttSE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2007


With the 2007 Sierra Challenge gang
Posted Aug 10, 2007 11:59 am

Travis_SE Face with Sierra Challenge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2007


Climbed Whorl and Matterhorn with a great group of guys from the Sierra Challenge. See Trip Report
Posted Aug 5, 2007 4:07 pm

metasyn11SE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2007


Climbed with a contingent of 6 as part of the 2007 Sierra Challenge (most, or some at least, did the Doodad). Fun scrambling in the chutes and particularly through the chockstone. Grand views.
Posted Aug 3, 2007 6:15 pm

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