OverviewThis is the large flow in the center of the buttress that you see from the other Devil’s Gap climbs (Malignant Mushroom, Sunshine, etc.). The grade on this one seems a bit variable, when the upper pitch comes in fat it is reported to be a solid grade 4, but what appears to be more common is for the wind to form a maze of mushrooms and detached pillars, making it feel more like a techy 5+. Some photos of this climb make it look downright terrifying, our theory is that WI4+ is kind of like 5.9+, in that it’s likely to be several grades harder by modern standards.
ApproachGet to the South Ghost, Dow pretty much has this covered so I’m not going to rehash it, I feel like we’ve driven a slightly different way each time anyways.
From the parking lot hike south through the trees, the route should come into view shortly and there will likely be a trail.
As you near the climb itself a short ice curtain blocks your path, this could be an easy solo but most groups seem to walk around to the left and gear up at the base.
Route DescriptionPitch 1 (WI4) - Climb solid 70-80 degree ice for around 30m to a ledge and a bolt anchor on the left just before the ice gets crazy.
Pitch 2 (WI4-5) - Make your way up the remaining 35m to another bolt anchor, this pitch may or may not be protectable, but rest stances abound.
Descent - rappel the route, 70m doubles make it to the ground in one rap, 60s might do the same.