Rofenkarferner was completely ice, made it quite uncomfortable on the upper part of the glacier. Don't crampon up on the left side of the upper part of the glacier cause there's continuously stones falling down in hot conditions. Leave the part of the glacier about midway to go right to the rocky ridge. A good eye will spot the marks where most people went. Go up too high and you'll be left in uncomfortable loose rock area (or climb the steeper ice if you're into that).
North ridge we were lucky with 10 up to 30cm of snow, made it very stable and not hard.
Note: Climbing Wildspitze from Otztaler Urkund is very dangerous nowadays, no one does it anymore the guides say and Breslauerhütte says.
missihawk - Dec 28, 2022 5:07 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2022
Normal from Vernagt
During a mountaineering course.
Very nice weather conditions, the snow was wet on the way down and a lot of ice on the Vernagtferner.
Climbed as part of an Alpine Mountaineering course with the Austrian Alpine Association
jck - Oct 18, 2017 5:54 am Date Climbed: Oct 15, 2017
Traverse
Did the traverse from Breslauer Hutte: via Mitterkarjoch to South summit, then to the North Summit and along Mitterkarferner back to Breslauer hutte. Good trail on the way up, dozen of people, trailbreaking in knee-deep snow on the descent. Fantastic day, perfect weather.
bserk - Jul 17, 2017 3:17 am Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2015
Great Novice to Intermediate Peak
Loved the climb after the advanced mountaineering course of the German Alpine Club. The Taschachhaus has really nice breakfast and even better dinner. Free tee in the morning and a good Brotzeit on the go.
Silvia Mazzani - Mar 17, 2017 2:44 am Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2016
Wildspitze
Climbed via Breslauer Hütte. A great mountain.
NatureGirl - Nov 26, 2016 6:24 pm Date Climbed: Oct 18, 2014
day tour via Mitterkar
wonderful conditions, great group, challenging day tour, perfect weather.
Ivona - Nov 9, 2015 5:27 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2015
Breslauer Hutte - Mitterkarjoch
Interesting route. Wonderful weather and views!
SimonPL - Oct 12, 2014 12:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2014
From Breslauerhuette
Fantastic trip to Wildspitze via Mitterkarjoch. I was in second group on the top.
Very ideal weather, a great sunny day. We've set up our tents at the glacier lake.
Glacier lake near Breslauer Hutte - couloir - Wildspitze
Wildspitze - Mitterkarjoch - glacier lake
Route: Up via Oetztaler Urkund, down via Rofenkarferner
Went up with guide from Breslauer hutte via Urkundholm (3150), Oetztaler Urkund (3450), then traverse to Wildspitze East wall, up a couloir, and then rock/snow to summit (4.5 hrs). Class II-III. Lots of snow. Some very exposed sections. We were the only ones on this not so common route. Down via one of the common routes: North Summit, to Taschenferner, then via Point 3550 to Rofenkarferner (3.5 hrs).
fubar7500 - May 3, 2014 7:11 pm Date Climbed: May 2, 2014
Snowshoe trip from Breslauer Hutte
Breslauer Hutte - Mitterkarjoch - Wildspitze.
Cloudy and foggy day, but with mild wind. Switching for crampons in Mitterkarjoch couloir.
rgg - Apr 4, 2013 5:09 am Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2012
North-south traverse
Back in 2004, the Wildspitze was my first glacier climb, then from the Vernagthütte and back.
This time we climbed the North wall and descended the normal route back to the Breslauerhütte, and further down to Vent.
telemarkdude - Oct 9, 2012 2:25 am Date Climbed: Jul 21, 1988
Northwest Ridge from Braunschweiger Huette
Climbed the Northwest ridge of the Wildspitze. Beautiful climb. Descended the standard route.
Gijsj - Sep 27, 2012 6:32 am Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2012
From Venagthütte
We took the route from Vernagthütte via the kleiner Vernagtferner and the Brochkogeljoch 3423m. Further over the Taschachferner and the normal route to the southern top. There was about 30cm of fresh snow on the glaciers which made some crevasses invisible. The weather was extremely good, sunny and very bright air giving a superb panoramic view on almost the whole Eastern Alps. A better view was not possible according local mountain guides because we could see the Piz Tödi of 3614m in the Glarus Alps (Switzerland), which is a view of 148km/92miles. Our Austrian guides told me that in recent years the chance on this kind of excellent weather is greater in september than in july/august, mainly because of the colder nights in september. Descend route was the same as ascend, we used crampons because of the fresh snow until we reached the glacier. Long but easy tour.
I parked at the lot in the tiny village of Rofen (2014 m) and started hiking at 2:15 a.m. with the temperature at 39 degrees F. Following the trail, I reached the Vernagthutte (2755 m) at 4:45 a.m., where the temperature was 31 degrees F. I reached the south summit (3770 m) at 9:45 a.m. with a temperature of 16 degrees F not considering chill from roughly 20 mph wind. Along the route above 2800 meters the wind stayed moderate and steady out of the north. Below about 2300 meters there was little snow left, and above that it was all neve, but with avalanche danger rising to moderate in the afternoon on steep slopes. I returned to Rofen at 1:00 p.m. and by then the temperature down there had risen to 62 degrees F.
rgg - Nov 9, 2010 6:14 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2004
Normal route
From the Vernagthütte and back.
Lodewijk - Oct 22, 2010 4:55 am Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2010
Traverse Route
We did the Traverse Route:
Breslauer Hut - Mitterkarjoch - Wildspitze South Summit - Wildspitze North Summit - Rofenkarferner - Breslauer Hut
First to summit that day, we had to summit early because the weather predictions were very bad! At the summit a little cloudy but still great views. Later that day while descending back to Vent from Breslauer Hut a big Thunderstorm broke out. So we were glad we were already almost down in the valley.
After we did the Mainzer Hohenweg the day before, we started to climb from the Braunschweigerhütte to the Wildspitze. We took the normal route over the Piztaler Joch, the Tasachferner and straight up to the Mitterkarjoch to acces the normalroute from the Breslauerhütte to the summit. Due to bad conditions (too much snow) the guide decided to take the same way back but to the Breslauerhütte, instead of descending over the Rofenkarferner to the Breslauerhütte. The tour wasn't as heavy as the Mainzer Hohenweg, but because of the large amounts of snow it took us about 11.5 hours in total. (Braunschweigerhütte-Wildspitze-Breslauerhütte-Vent)
jdegroot - Sep 8, 2023 2:05 pm
North ridge succesfulRofenkarferner was completely ice, made it quite uncomfortable on the upper part of the glacier. Don't crampon up on the left side of the upper part of the glacier cause there's continuously stones falling down in hot conditions. Leave the part of the glacier about midway to go right to the rocky ridge. A good eye will spot the marks where most people went. Go up too high and you'll be left in uncomfortable loose rock area (or climb the steeper ice if you're into that).
North ridge we were lucky with 10 up to 30cm of snow, made it very stable and not hard.
Note: Climbing Wildspitze from Otztaler Urkund is very dangerous nowadays, no one does it anymore the guides say and Breslauerhütte says.
missihawk - Dec 28, 2022 5:07 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2022
Normal from VernagtDuring a mountaineering course.
Very nice weather conditions, the snow was wet on the way down and a lot of ice on the Vernagtferner.
MikeLJ - Apr 2, 2018 1:54 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 1986
Ordinary routeClimbed as part of an Alpine Mountaineering course with the Austrian Alpine Association
jck - Oct 18, 2017 5:54 am Date Climbed: Oct 15, 2017
TraverseDid the traverse from Breslauer Hutte: via Mitterkarjoch to South summit, then to the North Summit and along Mitterkarferner back to Breslauer hutte. Good trail on the way up, dozen of people, trailbreaking in knee-deep snow on the descent. Fantastic day, perfect weather.
bserk - Jul 17, 2017 3:17 am Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2015
Great Novice to Intermediate PeakLoved the climb after the advanced mountaineering course of the German Alpine Club. The Taschachhaus has really nice breakfast and even better dinner. Free tee in the morning and a good Brotzeit on the go.
Silvia Mazzani - Mar 17, 2017 2:44 am Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2016
WildspitzeClimbed via Breslauer Hütte. A great mountain.
NatureGirl - Nov 26, 2016 6:24 pm Date Climbed: Oct 18, 2014
day tour via Mitterkarwonderful conditions, great group, challenging day tour, perfect weather.
Ivona - Nov 9, 2015 5:27 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2015
Breslauer Hutte - MitterkarjochInteresting route. Wonderful weather and views!
SimonPL - Oct 12, 2014 12:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2014
From BreslauerhuetteFantastic trip to Wildspitze via Mitterkarjoch. I was in second group on the top.
Kimmuriel - Jul 27, 2014 2:32 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2014
WildspitzeVery ideal weather, a great sunny day. We've set up our tents at the glacier lake.
Glacier lake near Breslauer Hutte - couloir - Wildspitze
Wildspitze - Mitterkarjoch - glacier lake
PaulK - Jul 23, 2014 4:44 pm Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2014
Route: Up via Oetztaler Urkund, down via RofenkarfernerWent up with guide from Breslauer hutte via Urkundholm (3150), Oetztaler Urkund (3450), then traverse to Wildspitze East wall, up a couloir, and then rock/snow to summit (4.5 hrs). Class II-III. Lots of snow. Some very exposed sections. We were the only ones on this not so common route. Down via one of the common routes: North Summit, to Taschenferner, then via Point 3550 to Rofenkarferner (3.5 hrs).
fubar7500 - May 3, 2014 7:11 pm Date Climbed: May 2, 2014
Snowshoe trip from Breslauer HutteBreslauer Hutte - Mitterkarjoch - Wildspitze.
Cloudy and foggy day, but with mild wind. Switching for crampons in Mitterkarjoch couloir.
rgg - Apr 4, 2013 5:09 am Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2012
North-south traverseBack in 2004, the Wildspitze was my first glacier climb, then from the Vernagthütte and back.
This time we climbed the North wall and descended the normal route back to the Breslauerhütte, and further down to Vent.
telemarkdude - Oct 9, 2012 2:25 am Date Climbed: Jul 21, 1988
Northwest Ridge from Braunschweiger HuetteClimbed the Northwest ridge of the Wildspitze. Beautiful climb. Descended the standard route.
Gijsj - Sep 27, 2012 6:32 am Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2012
From VenagthütteWe took the route from Vernagthütte via the kleiner Vernagtferner and the Brochkogeljoch 3423m. Further over the Taschachferner and the normal route to the southern top. There was about 30cm of fresh snow on the glaciers which made some crevasses invisible. The weather was extremely good, sunny and very bright air giving a superb panoramic view on almost the whole Eastern Alps. A better view was not possible according local mountain guides because we could see the Piz Tödi of 3614m in the Glarus Alps (Switzerland), which is a view of 148km/92miles. Our Austrian guides told me that in recent years the chance on this kind of excellent weather is greater in september than in july/august, mainly because of the colder nights in september. Descend route was the same as ascend, we used crampons because of the fresh snow until we reached the glacier. Long but easy tour.
Charles - Nov 7, 2011 8:07 am
Nice dayThe ordinary route from the vernagtütte and down to the Braslauerhütte. Nice day out with a snow storm on the top
nlafevers - Sep 15, 2011 10:52 pm Date Climbed: Apr 10, 2011
From RofenI parked at the lot in the tiny village of Rofen (2014 m) and started hiking at 2:15 a.m. with the temperature at 39 degrees F. Following the trail, I reached the Vernagthutte (2755 m) at 4:45 a.m., where the temperature was 31 degrees F. I reached the south summit (3770 m) at 9:45 a.m. with a temperature of 16 degrees F not considering chill from roughly 20 mph wind. Along the route above 2800 meters the wind stayed moderate and steady out of the north. Below about 2300 meters there was little snow left, and above that it was all neve, but with avalanche danger rising to moderate in the afternoon on steep slopes. I returned to Rofen at 1:00 p.m. and by then the temperature down there had risen to 62 degrees F.
rgg - Nov 9, 2010 6:14 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2004
Normal routeFrom the Vernagthütte and back.
Lodewijk - Oct 22, 2010 4:55 am Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2010
Traverse RouteWe did the Traverse Route:
Breslauer Hut - Mitterkarjoch - Wildspitze South Summit - Wildspitze North Summit - Rofenkarferner - Breslauer Hut
First to summit that day, we had to summit early because the weather predictions were very bad! At the summit a little cloudy but still great views. Later that day while descending back to Vent from Breslauer Hut a big Thunderstorm broke out. So we were glad we were already almost down in the valley.
pirminoldeweghuis - Aug 13, 2010 2:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2009
From BraunschweigerhütteAfter we did the Mainzer Hohenweg the day before, we started to climb from the Braunschweigerhütte to the Wildspitze. We took the normal route over the Piztaler Joch, the Tasachferner and straight up to the Mitterkarjoch to acces the normalroute from the Breslauerhütte to the summit. Due to bad conditions (too much snow) the guide decided to take the same way back but to the Breslauerhütte, instead of descending over the Rofenkarferner to the Breslauerhütte. The tour wasn't as heavy as the Mainzer Hohenweg, but because of the large amounts of snow it took us about 11.5 hours in total. (Braunschweigerhütte-Wildspitze-Breslauerhütte-Vent)