Found a nice spot at the end of the road a short distance from Cold Creek. Brief and enjoyable hike in... Max found the remains of a deceased horse on the way!
We had a beautiful camp overlooking the glacier and plenty of time to rest before the climb the next day. Good group with Ian and Daria as well. We headed straight into most of the features. Very low snow year so plenty were showing, otherwise better to go later in the year.
At the highest icefall we had a short bit of vertical climbing... brought 3 pickets and 4 screws but only ended up using one picket. Then a steady snow climb to the summit in warm and sunny weather. Descended the Hotlum-Wintun Ridge. Quick glissade!
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe