Found a nice spot at the end of the road a short distance from Cold Creek. Brief and enjoyable hike in... Max found the remains of a deceased horse on the way!
We had a beautiful camp overlooking the glacier and plenty of time to rest before the climb the next day. Good group with Ian and Daria as well. We headed straight into most of the features. Very low snow year so plenty were showing, otherwise better to go later in the year.
At the highest icefall we had a short bit of vertical climbing... brought 3 pickets and 4 screws but only ended up using one picket. Then a steady snow climb to the summit in warm and sunny weather. Descended the Hotlum-Wintun Ridge. Quick glissade!
"As an adolescent I aspired to lasting fame, I craved factual certainty, and I thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life - so I became a scientist. This is like becoming an archbishop so you can meet girls."