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Yanapaccha Climber's Log

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SarahThompsonGreat start to the trip!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2016


This fun and easily accessible peak made for a great start to our 3 week trip. Spent one night in Huaraz, one at Cebollapampa with a dayhike to Lake 69, and one at moraine camp before going for the summit. Got lost in an icy sea of wild crevasses at the bottom of the glacier in the morning darkness but eventually found our way. The route required crossing several tenuous snow bridges and then climbing through seracs to gain the northwest ridge about 400 feet below the summit. We had to climb one pitch of steep snow to gain the ridge which felt ok unprotected on the way up but we belayed on the descent. Summit ridge was relatively easy. Awesome views up top. Descended to Cebollapampa afterwards on rough trail that was difficult to follow in places and ended up doing a little bushwhacking.
Posted Jul 24, 2016 12:52 pm

Cloud OceanWhat a nice climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2015

Cloud Ocean

Climbed guided 1:1 with Edgar Parra. A very short, easy approach hike makes Yanapaccha quite accessible. A wonderful change to the other peaks we climbed/attempted in Peru, which all sport endless, often miserable approach slogs over moraine. Three pitches to the summit, one riddled with medium-sized crevasses and interesting ice steps. Definitely an AD grade. 4:30 from tent to top, minimal route finding invovled. The knife-edge summit has truly awe-inspiring views of Huascaran, the Huandoys, Chacraraju, and others. Perhaps an even better summit view than nearby Pisco. Highly recommended!
Posted Sep 12, 2015 11:11 pm

Monster5good fun  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2013


Fun little peak. Great views.
Posted Nov 9, 2014 6:25 pm

jbagleyHuaraz Treks guided trip  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2013
A guided trip through Huaraz Treks with awesome guide Rodolfo. This was an amazing experience to my highest altitude attained yet. We had lots of snow, and 4 pitches of 50+ degree snow slopes to reach the knife-edge ridge summit. I cannot think of a better finale to a honeymoon.
Posted Nov 14, 2013 7:27 pm

CissaDirect  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2013


Climbed the direct,no visibility at the summit but a great first climb to acclimitize.
Posted Sep 15, 2013 3:13 pm

cootemDirect Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2013


All parties climbing that day and that we spoke to about recent climbs were not accessing the NW ridge, but climbed direct. Accessing the ridge would have been difficult due to seracs. This goes at a solid PD. Be sure and have two 60m ropes for decent using any existing fixed pickets or be prepared to down climb 60 deg snow, heavily crevassed. Also, the access trail from the top of the road switch backs is now a well maintained, easy, trail. Use extra caution purifying drinking water at the camp. We were on an expedition researching water quality throughout the Cordillera, and this water tested amongst the poorest in the region. We used boiled water from a hidden stream feeding the pond; you may need to move a few rocks to access it. As others noted, a spectacular climb.
Posted Jul 27, 2013 3:40 pm

JakeFantastic climb!   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2013


Climbed Yanapaccha with my partner Jacek from the high camp in 4h. Fantastic route, we had plenty of sun on the ridge and on the summits. One of the best views in Cordillera Blanca. Highly recommended!
Posted Jul 9, 2013 8:36 am

skyward22NW Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2011


very short but fun climb at a moderate altitude. rendered one of the best pictures anyone has ever taken of me with chacaraju in the background.
Posted Jan 15, 2013 4:30 am

markthejockNW ridge   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2011


After the slog up the glacier and skirting around a few crevasses, the short steep section to get onto the NW ridge provided a little amusement before the great panorama opened up near the summit - the view to Chopi and Huascaran is just awesome.
Posted Feb 16, 2012 7:18 am

andretHoly Moly  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2011


Summited under a full moon. Didn't even need a headlamp. Probably some of the best views I've seen on any mountain in the Blanca. Well worth it! Super easy, 2 hour approach.
Posted Aug 13, 2011 7:22 pm

sergejfSummit!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2011


Summitted in 3 h 15 from the laguna camp in perfect conditions, only challenge being the 80 m. 55 degrees slope under the mushroom. Photos on http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergejf/sets/72157627265452906/
Posted Aug 8, 2011 11:17 am

rggNW ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2011


A fine climb with magnificent views. It already started on the approach and continued on the climb, all the way up to the summit. Of course, it didnĀ“t do no harm that we had sunshine all the time.
Posted Jul 31, 2011 6:40 pm

Jukka AhonenThanks Skyline  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2011

Jukka Ahonen

I climbed the mountain as a part of a 6 day mountaineering course by Skyline Adventure School. The mountain was really ideal for this, as it proved to be technical enough to require us to use pretty much every technique we had gone through during the course (except crevasse rescue, lucky!).
Posted Jul 23, 2011 4:13 pm

bledlgood climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2010


Good first climb. A few big crevasses, some 50 degree snow, lots of good views. Unfortunately an American guide died in a crevasse up there the week before, which gave us a strange feeling climbing it.
Posted Aug 18, 2010 10:29 am

GidoVery attractive mountain  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2010


Exceptional day with no clouds, probably one of the most spectacular summit views you can have in the Cordillera Blanca.
Posted Jul 14, 2010 1:28 pm

dancla22Good Climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2008


This was my first real experience at mountaineering and I couldn't of asked for a better way to start, the valley has great views of other peaks around. The climb is a great start for anyone starting out, not to hard but hard enough and not intimidating at all.
Posted Nov 11, 2009 7:28 am

MRoyer4Great  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2008


A great choice for acclimatization. More challenging than a walk-up but not too taxing for getting used to the altitude. Beautiful views from the summit of the Huandoys, Pisco, Chopi, and especially Chacraraju.
Posted Oct 5, 2009 11:14 pm

Brad FGreat climb
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2009

Brad F

I took a six day mountain climbing course with Skyline Adventures on Yanapaccha. Great climb with amazing views, but unfortunately we got turned around by a storm high up around 5,300 m. Still an amazing experience!
Posted Jul 7, 2009 2:00 pm

nattfoddMagic climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2009


Moonlight climb without headlamps, summited just before sunrise on a clear day... I doubt it gets much better than this!

Left at 3:15, summit at 5:45 and back in BC by 7:30. Very straightforward, could have done with only one ice axe and no snow stakes though the last part is a bit steep.
Posted Jun 15, 2009 10:16 am

StokesreesQuick and obvious  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2008


We set off from the high bivy pond at 4am. We summited and returned to the pond by noon. Were back in Huaraz by late afternoon. This is a very enjoyable, very straight-forward climb. In the upper sections it is useful to have 3 or 4 snow stakes. Especially for descending. My video will give you a very good idea what the climb looks like: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cW8rk6GYyvI
Posted Jun 7, 2009 6:55 am

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