Silvio and I made a try from a high camp at 5500 meters. The right and left sides of the face were a horror show of seracs and cornices but a direct line up the face looked relatively safe. We crossed the ´schrund on the far right and did a long traverse on neve below a serac band to gain our line, which was 60 degree ice. After a pitch my partner felt bad so we bailed. Two days later we were bivied directly across the way on Rasac at 4 a.m. when we watched an avalanche take out the start of the route at precisely the time we had been there 48 hours before.