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Your\'s truly attempting to...
Your's truly attempting to lead the striking finger crack, Angel Crack (5.10D). I am placing a #1 friend here, and there is a Zero Z6 clipped at my waist. I fell shortly after this picture was taken, only 5 feet from the top of the hard section.


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Voted 10/10

Did you do finger stacks for this, or ring locks, or just put what you could in & squeeze?? How close to vertical was the climb? Seems like it would be next to impossible while smearing one's feet if it were really steep. Great shot, BTW!
Posted Jun 8, 2004 7:53 pm

KlenkeRe: technique


Voted 10/10

I'll let Martin answer the technical stuff but I will mention that the great shot was taken by one of two cuties who were milling about up there. I was busy belaying (where the rope goes to the right). The girls left early thereafter.

Interesting event: I was anchored to a coffee table-sized rock. Martin was tugging on me so much while belaying him that he/we pulled the rock over, which freed the anchor from it, and I wound up running to him (to the wall). In this case the terrain around the anchor was not exposed. I can't imagine such a thing happening on a hairy ledge.
Posted Jun 8, 2004 9:36 pm

Martin CashRe: technique

Martin Cash

Hasn't voted

Yep, I believe the anchor pulled out when I fell about 1 second after this photo.

Yeah, I would never try to lead a pitch like that off a small ledge. Fun to practice in controlled conditions though!
Posted Jun 9, 2004 11:45 am

Martin CashRe: technique

Martin Cash

Hasn't voted

No stacking or ring locks. The pitch is slightly less than vertical, about 80 to 85 degrees.

The thin section below my feet is about 1/2" and only takes tips jambs. It gradually widens to 1" to get good finger jambs. Twisting and squezzing is what I used to hold the jambs.

Thanks for the vote.
Posted Jun 9, 2004 12:04 pm

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Martin CashSubmitted by Martin Cash
on May 18, 2004 9:47 am

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